No Calculators Allowed 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Unknown, 1979 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jul 3, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: The Thin Wall
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Description One of the better routes on the Thin Wall, this takes a featured crack system 15' left of an obvious right-facing corner system.
Fun climbing down low leads to a cruxy bulge which is passed via positive incut holds and jams. One star out of five.
Protection A selection of wires and cams to 2" or so will be adequate. Walk off to the south (climber's left).
Ivana past the crux.
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Some nice climbing on the twin cracks of 'No Calcu...
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Myong pulling the Roof on No Calculators Allowed.....
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and topping out to great the sun.
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Tozan setting up for the crux..
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| Comments on No Calculators Allowed |
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 28, 2003
| I once watched in awe as an 80+ year old German man worked his way up this one - very inspiring! |
By Bo Johnston
Oct 10, 2005
rating: 5.10a
| Pulling the bulge was the crux on this one but as stated above, it's a "pull and go" type move but 10a in finding the move and pulling it all the same. At the top there is a single bolt placed to keep the rope straight up the route and the bolts above Count on Your Fingers are used for the anchor. Cool way to set up the bolts on top I thought. |
By Kellen Holt
Dec 31, 2005
rating: 5.10a
| Felt pretty good for the grade. Definitely harder than Count on your fingers, and it's steeper at the top. Place a good piece at the horizontal below the final overhang and then fire the moves to the top. Placing gear in the vertical cracks during the meat of the overhang will flame you out, plus you take away good holds by doing so. A good lead or top-rope - fire it! |
By Blitzo
Sep 22, 2006
| Cool moves at the top. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2007
| Fun climb and great overhang! Nice jam for the crux. THE must do at Thin Wall, IMHO. |
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Aug 31, 2007
rating: 5.10a
| Fun but a super popular TR. |
By BenCooper
From: Olympia, WA
Dec 11, 2008
| Count on your Fingers, at 5.9, is a more sustained climb in my opinion, while this is fairly soft for J-Tree .10a (much easier than say, Bird of Fire). Instead of using the bolt as a directional at the top, just plug a bomber cam below the lip. Less rope drag, and no real danger for the second at that point. Great route, get on it. |
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