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70M ROPE REQUIRED. This route has a ton of varied climbing. Face climbing, aretes, dihedrals, laybacks, stems, even a hand jam or two and a short section of chimney. This route has two sets of anchors so you can get off with one 70M rope by doing two rappels. We did this climb as one long pitch. We skipped the first bolt and used a long runner at the first anchors and also on some of the bolts above the ledge above the chimney to reduce the rope drag. Even so the rope gets pretty heavy. Now and then the rock is less than ideal but the quality of the climbing on the rest of the route outweighs these short sections. Since it is new I would encourage others in the area not to climb or leave gear to the right of the start to this climb.
This route is just right of Master Blaster and works up a less than beautiful slab to a corner. From there a short crack leads up and right to the arete which eventually leads to the main corner system up the cliff.
Bolt. 29 draws for the entire route 16 for the first half.
You can see the dihedral above the climber that is...
Low down on the first pitch. You can see the shor...
BETA PHOTO: No Brainer (August 2013)
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 7, 2012
Hahahaha love the name!
|By John Hayes|
From: Bend, OR
Oct 9, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Ha, ha, ha...good name Eric! This is a super fun, long route with lots of varied and thoughtful moves. Highly recommended.
From: Tucson AZ
May 7, 2013
If you do this in two pitches it is no problem to rap the route with a 60 meter rope.
May 26, 2013
Jack, you won't get to the ground from the 1st pitch anchors with a 60. You can just swing left onto the slab and down climb 20 feet on easy terrain. Or do a short rap to the anchors on Tombstone Tourist. A 60 will get you down from there.