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 ADVANCED
Rodeo Flips Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
No Bolts To Blind You T 
Rodeo Flips S,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

No Bolts To Blind You 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Nik Aksamit, Curt Olson '12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: N. Aksamit on Aug 18, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: No Bolts to Blind You. From here, shoot up and lef...

Seasonal Raptor Closures.

Description 

Starting just to the right of large sage brush, work your way up a blocky "corner system" with thin pro. After the first 15 feet, you are aiming for the left side of the bulge/nose where there is a nice offwidth crack to arm bar in to the top. Highlights are some "thought provoking" traverse moves, nice exposure, and of course, the off width finish. Thinly protected. Build your own anchor up top.

Location 

Work your way west (downstream) past the large boulder field on the east end of the wall (where Rodeo and Misty flips are). Getting back into the cheat grass, work your way under the wall looking for a large nose sticking out up top, above a considerable sage brush specimen (head high mid August '12) where you begin to meet up with a boulder field again closely below.

Protection 

Brass wires, tiny cams, and #3 or #4 C4 for OW finish.


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By N. Aksamit
From: Canmore, AB
Aug 19, 2012

We built an anchor up top after doing NBTBY and TR'd the looker's right side of the top bulge. It was a bit harder, maybe 5.9+, with an interesting smaller crack to finish the climb and some fun roof moves.