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 ADVANCED
Fourth Flatiron
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Arc de Triumph S 
East Face, Extra Credit Summit T 
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Lower South-East Gully T 
No Balls At All 

No Balls At All 

Hueco: V1 Font: 5

   
Type:  Boulder, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: Stefan Greibel & Tony Bubb 7/29/04
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 915
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 29, 2004

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Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The 4th Flatiron is really 3 different slabs, between each slab is a gully or hanging garden diagonaling up and north between for hundreds of feet. Between the first and second slab it is a simple notch up top, but between the second and third slab, it is an odd grassy trench, a hanging garden of sorts.In this trench, which one would normally step down into from the second slab, then run up and Northwest to the third slab, on the North side, there is a ridge of steep puzzle pieces running a length from a large pine that grows against the rock and continues for maybe 80 feet. The ridge is jugs, sidepulls, and underclings on "puzzle piece" holds that looks like a loose-fit jigsaw puzzle the entire way to the opening of the gully. The rock is almost universally solid. The crux move is a move up and left on big holds perhaps 15' off of the deck and comes about 1/3 way through the route. If you fell, you'd probably break something and proceed to roll 50-100' down the gully through rocks, so this is a boulder problem for climbers who WILL NOT FALL. Consider it a highball.

The rating is V0 or V1. I said V1 in approach shoes, particularly considering the enduro factor of the climb.


Protection 

A spotter- or not. This is essentially a high-ball. A fall would be nasty and a rescue from there would be horrible. If you are alone, they won't find the body for weeks or months.



Comments on No Balls At All Add Comment
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By ac
Jul 30, 2004

This one truly sounds like a *** must-do classic to me Tony. Maybe you should stick to splitting grades and complaining about fixed gear placements.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 30, 2004

I thought the route name was a play on Red Rocks' "Lotta Balls Wall". Maybe?

By Ben
Jul 26, 2005

Maybe we should stop encouraging the negative image of Front Range Climbers by quabbling over ratings and other ARBITRARY things. Assuming that you used the term AC as a derogotory term for aid climber, give it a rest and remember what brings people out to the crags in first place. Climb and let climb you maladjusted boulderer you...

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 27, 2005

Ben, you must be new to this site.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 4, 2008

This is really super funny, because the name was chosen with this exact scenario in mind. It seemed that some 'ac' always has something stupid to say, but not own up to it by posting their name...
I don't know who you are, but you do, and this route was named just for you.

By England
From: ?
Feb 12, 2009

So, when did the FA take place Mr. Bubb??? Do you know how long people have been climbing here? You're funny!!!

By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Feb 13, 2009

You've been bubbed.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 14, 2009

Thanks England. For my own part, only for 14 years, but I am sure others have, too... Feel free to add better info.

Checked out your profile, enjoyed this line:
"More information: West Virginia Native; Colorado Springs Resident. Father, and Friend To All."

Cheers, pal.

By England
From: ?
Sep 30, 2009

No I don't have any additional information on this climb. Actually I was looking for a Tony Bubb FA to do in the Boulder area, and found this. I had totally forgotten that I had posted this until I was checking all of my posts. I guess I had drank to much, and thought it might be fun to poke some fun in your general direction. No disrespect was meant.