No. 2 Gully  M3-4

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Type:  Mixed, Alpine, 4 pitches, 700 feet Consensus:  M3-4 [details] FA:  Possibly B. Collett, Eric Zale, January 2012 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Ben Collett on Jan 8, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This route was really fun. There is a nice combination of turf and dry-tooling on it.

1) Cruise up the gut of the gully until a steep step is reached at which point you can step right to some good gear and a belay at around 45 meters below a steep corner, M3.

2) Head up the steep corner with some wide stemming and good gear. Belay at a tree below the snow covered bench, M3/4, 35m.

3) Cross the snow bench and head up loose ground to an obvious, left-leaning gully/chimney and climb its end on a mini-ridge. At this point, the route meets up with No. 1 Gully, M3, 80m.

4) Climb a short steep wall above the top of the gully and traverse right into a snow gully. Follow the gully to the trees at the top.

To descend, we followed the raps for No. 1 Gully as follows: From a tree at the top, a 55m rap down and climber's left past the belay for pitch 3 gets you to a slung block. A 60m rap straight down from the slung block gets you to a fixed nut on the right wall of a mini-gully. One last rap will have you back on the ground.

Location 

Start above the snow finger labeled No. 2 in the Steeplechase beta picture. You are heading for the steep corner in the back of the gully.

Protection 

A couple of pins were nice as was a large hex. Other than that, take a standard rock rack.