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BETA PHOTO: The bolted arete, marked 11b, is the "Direct ...
The route starts on a stellar lie-back, 10c then into a gnarley offwidth which leads to a ledge where a short but sweet hands/fingers crack (the crux) that leads to the upper face moves of "The Missing Link." You can place pro or use the last two bolts of "The Missing Link."
The route is just right of the "Direct Start of The Missing Link"(a.k.a. Java Man) on the North and West side of this tower as it leans against the main "Welcome Wall."
A wide assortment of cams with at least three #3s and three #4s gets you to the chain anchor. As you exit the lie-back and head around to the west side, DO NOT STEP INTO THE TALUS CHUTE! Stay on the wall or risk sending tons of washing-machine-sized boulders down on your belayer!
BETA PHOTO: The top 2/3s of the route is out of sight but the ...