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West Wall
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April Fools T 
Arctic Breeze S 
Banana T 
Captain Coconuts T 
Craven Image T 
Dead Tree Direct T 
Gamoke, The T 
Hospital Corner T 
Lady Bug T 
Magnum Force T 
Mainline T 
Nirvana S 
Third Stone From The Sun T 
Vanishing Point T 

Nirvana 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 997
Submitted By: Salamanizer on Jul 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Catching some exposure above the second belay.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climbs the Arete to the left of Hospital Corner. First pitch follows the beautifull orange arete through thin delicate moves to a bulge, then up dikes to a preplexing finish. One 60m rope will get you close to the ground. Carefull or you'll drop someone on the lower off. The second pitch climbs even thinner and more balancy moves past a few bolts to the anchor.

Location 

To the left of Hospital Corner

Protection 

9 draws.


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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jul 3, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

If you want to be sure to get down on one rap, use a 70m rope. Or, if you've got a 60, walk east on that ledge with the anchors 10 feet and rap off the Arctic Breeze anchors.
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 7, 2010

We rapped from the first set of anchors, and our 70mm rope JUST made it to the ground.
By Louis Mullerleile
From: Sacramento, California
Oct 7, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A bold line. The second pitch has a strong beginning sequence, and eases up significantly after getting through the second bolt. Both pitches are excellent climbs with a variety of fun, delicate moves. I thought that the second pitch was easier than the first, and the supplemental pro on the second pitch is unnecessary(it is well bolted). Do both pitches for the full experience!