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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and John Long, August 1986
Page Views: 774
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006
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A great climb which is a better and more direct start to Valhalla than that route's first pitch. When originally done it had only two bolts and traversed sharply left to a belay on Log Ledge; it has been re-engineered and now with four bolts is well protected. Rope drag can be a problem if only using short quickdraws - take some slings.

Start just right of Valhalla's first pitch and climb scoops up and slightly right past two bolts and then continue straight up past two more to join Valhalla at the first bolt (5.11a) on that route's second pitch. Higher, weave your way up past six more bolts to a bolted anchor. Continue above via Valhalla or rap 80' to Log Ledge and then make another rap (60') back to your packs.

Excellent if done as a single pitch or as an alternate start to Valhalla. The combination of smearing low on the route to edging higher up adds a nice touch to this fun route.


11 bolts, bolted anchor/rap

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By Brandon R.
From: San Mateo, CA
Nov 18, 2006

This thing felt harder than the crux of Valhalla. Maybe better in cooler conditions?

By Adam Stackhouse
Nov 19, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This is an alternate start to Valhalla. Combined with P2 of Valhalla (sans the belay) this makes for one long pitch, making Valhalla itself into a two pitch climb.

By Murf
May 11, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I agree with Brandon, the Nirvana start is harder and more sustained than the crux of Vahalla.

By darryl banks
Sep 25, 2011

glad other people think this waz ridikulas hard for 10c...11b?

By Jim Dover
From: Idyllwild, Ca
Feb 5, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

Led this today. Seems like harder than 11a and definitely harder than Valhalla's start and harder/thinner than the upper section. Note: if doing the full 160 pitch the rope drag and weight is SPOOKY getting the last few bolts. I really was glad it was only mid 10s because I thought it would pull me off. Still, great fun and a proud lead--even if I fell a few times (OK, fell a lot).