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Nirvana Blue 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Corbett
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 188
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Jul 10, 2012

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Description 

This one packs a mean punch right from the beginning. Some fun steep crack/corner and face climbing. A little bit of bad rock in some places, but they are obvious.

Start below a 2' roof at the base of a left-facing corner. A small/medium sized stopper can protect the steep opening moves. Pull up into the roof using the crack and face holds to get that very important 2nd piece of gear. Get into the corner above the roof and start stemming. Make a difficult move out of the next overhanging section to get up to a good stance and rest. Follow the corner up past an old rusty bolt. There is also other gear options at the bolt. Make some technical moves to get through the next bulge where there is a fixed nut and a small TCU to back it up. Work up and left towards a new bolt, which protects the last difficult moves to the anchors.

Location 

This is the first free climb you come to when you are approaching the catwalk area. Look for a large left-facing corner with a steep start. The webbing and bolt are obvious from the ground. Use a 60m to rap the route.

Protection 

Single rack to #2 camalot and some nuts. There are two bolts on route. A few longer slings to keep it running smooth out of the first roofs. There is a new bolt with a ring and an old bolt equalized to an old piton with webbing for the anchor. The webbing was updated 7/8/12.


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