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Nipple Fish 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Moore
New Route: Yes
Season: fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 515
Submitted By: mike moore on Oct 22, 2007
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Description 

Begin at a scoop to the right of Fear This Sport. Start by climbing the right of the scoop and trend left for a few bouldery moves. Easier climbing after the first bolt. An easier version of Fear This Sport; will clean up nicely with some travel.


Location 

Right of Fear This Sport. This route was bolted some years ago and appears in the old Swain book as a project. The bolts were pulled and as far as I know, the line was never sent. I re-bolted this route in early Sept., 2007. If it was sent before, then I hope an old route has been resurrected. Enjoy!


Protection 

Four bolts and shared anchors with Fear this Sport. Optional - Clipping the last bolt of Fear This Sport. Stick clip first bolt!!! Soon I will add an extra bolt for the start.



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By mike moore
From: las vegas, nv
Aug 2, 2011

The way I originally sent this route was to come from the left via a nice sized jug under the left end of the scoop/lip. That hold is now gone. Coming from the right is probably the same difficulty, just more reachy. I would call this solid 12b/c, not 5.13 as I have heard some people suggest over the last season. After the start and upon reaching the first bolt, the route eases significantly.