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Nipple Denial Syndrome 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Bill Leventhal, Matt Oliphant, Mike Draper
Page Views: 2,832
Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Feb 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Nipple Denial Syndrome

Description 

Shares the same start as Letterbox, climb the arete to a large hueco and past it to a slightly less than vertical face. Pumpy, overhanging moves.

Location 

On the arete, shared start with Letterbox

Protection 

Bolts Anchor


Photos of Nipple Denial Syndrome Slideshow Add Photo
Beginning the crux.
Beginning the crux.

Comments on Nipple Denial Syndrome Add Comment
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By veritus
From: redlands, ca
Mar 30, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Can anyone confirm a broken hold halfway up? this route doesn't feel like 5.11a/b and isn't consistent with the routes surrounding it.
By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Mar 30, 2007

My understanding is that a hold broke off above the big Hueco on the right side of the arete (on the Mr Big face). The last time I did this route it felt more like 11b/c.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 26, 2007

I also noticed a discrepancy between the guidebook grade and the actual grade. I would venture a grade of 5.11c, as it felt a little harder than Letterbox, which is in the 5.11b/c ballpark. Whatever the grade, however, it was good fun.
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Sent this on top-rope on Saturday. The crux definitely felt like a v3 boulder problem, for sure. 5.11b/c
By Brian Treanor
Apr 11, 2010

It's a bit silly to gripe about a letter grade up or down; but that being said, this route feels substantially harder than Letterbox does, at least for me. Your mileage may vary. (Yes, sent both.)
By Jimippa
From: Sherman Oaks, CA
Apr 11, 2010

I head "the nipple" broke off... if that's the case, the rating will start rising...
By Joi-Bobby Laos
Apr 11, 2011

i was just on this route this passed wkend and just so no one else is surprised as i was, bring two extra draws w/you for the top anchors because the permanente ones have rusted permanently shut.
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 23, 2011

This route sports new looking stainless biners at the top, definitely an upgrade from the rusted out old ones.

I felt this was harder than 5.11b