Nipple Denial Syndrome 5.11a/b
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Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Bill Leventhal, Matt Oliphant, Mike Draper |
| Submitted By: | Art Morimitsu on Feb 21, 2007 |
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Nipple Denial Syndrome
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Description Shares the same start as Letterbox, climb the arete to a large hueco and past it to a slightly less than vertical face. Pumpy, overhanging moves.
Location On the arete, shared start with Letterbox
Protection Bolts Anchor
| Comments on Nipple Denial Syndrome |
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By veritus
From: redlands, ca
Mar 30, 2007
rating: 5.11d
| Can anyone confirm a broken hold halfway up? this route doesn't feel like 5.11a/b and isn't consistent with the routes surrounding it. |
By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Mar 30, 2007
| My understanding is that a hold broke off above the big Hueco on the right side of the arete (on the Mr Big face). The last time I did this route it felt more like 11b/c. |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 26, 2007
| I also noticed a discrepancy between the guidebook grade and the actual grade. I would venture a grade of 5.11c, as it felt a little harder than Letterbox, which is in the 5.11b/c ballpark. Whatever the grade, however, it was good fun. |
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c
| Sent this on top-rope on Saturday. The crux definitely felt like a v3 boulder problem, for sure. 5.11b/c |
By Brian Treanor
Apr 11, 2010
| It's a bit silly to gripe about a letter grade up or down; but that being said, this route feels substantially harder than Letterbox does, at least for me. Your mileage may vary. (Yes, sent both.) |
By Jimippa
From: Sherman Oaks, CA
Apr 11, 2010
| I head "the nipple" broke off... if that's the case, the rating will start rising... |
By Joi-Bobby Laos
Apr 11, 2011
| i was just on this route this passed wkend and just so no one else is surprised as i was, bring two extra draws w/you for the top anchors because the permanente ones have rusted permanently shut. |
By Simon Hatfield
From: Los Angeles, CA
Sep 23, 2011
| This route sports new looking stainless biners at the top, definitely an upgrade from the rusted out old ones.
I felt this was harder than 5.11b |
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