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Nipple Denial Syndrome 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Bill Leventhal, Matt Oliphant, Mike Draper
Page Views: 2,555
Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Feb 21, 2007
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Nipple Denial Syndrome

Description 

Shares the same start as Letterbox, climb the arete to a large hueco and past it to a slightly less than vertical face. Pumpy, overhanging moves.


Location 

On the arete, shared start with Letterbox


Protection 

Bolts Anchor



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By veritus
From: redlands, ca
Mar 30, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Can anyone confirm a broken hold halfway up? this route doesn't feel like 5.11a/b and isn't consistent with the routes surrounding it.

By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Mar 30, 2007

My understanding is that a hold broke off above the big Hueco on the right side of the arete (on the Mr Big face). The last time I did this route it felt more like 11b/c.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 26, 2007

I also noticed a discrepancy between the guidebook grade and the actual grade. I would venture a grade of 5.11c, as it felt a little harder than Letterbox, which is in the 5.11b/c ballpark. Whatever the grade, however, it was good fun.

By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

Sent this on top-rope on Saturday. The crux definitely felt like a v3 boulder problem, for sure. 5.11b/c

By Brian Treanor
Apr 11, 2010

It's a bit silly to gripe about a letter grade up or down; but that being said, this route feels substantially harder than Letterbox does, at least for me. Your mileage may vary. (Yes, sent both.)

By Jimippa
From: Sherman Oaks, CA
Apr 11, 2010

I head "the nipple" broke off... if that's the case, the rating will start rising...

By Joi-Bobby Laos
Apr 11, 2011

i was just on this route this passed wkend and just so no one else is surprised as i was, bring two extra draws w/you for the top anchors because the permanente ones have rusted permanently shut.

By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 23, 2011

This route sports new looking stainless biners at the top, definitely an upgrade from the rusted out old ones.

I felt this was harder than 5.11b