This is a good rock with variety. It has cracks, to aretes, to sheer faces. On a corner it is sheltered from the winds and car noise is at a minimum. The base is very belayer-friendly - the warm sun basks the base in sun for a long time, and there is a soft clearing around. It appears, though, that this rock does not see as much traffic as some of the rocks closer to Boulder - lichen abounds on the rock. TR: The first three routes on Nip can be toproped via a scramble to the W. side of the rock and a hairy traverse out onto a ledge. Ebb Tide is best setup right above the climb in a wide crack. The Night Train is most directly setup out on the ledge using a short vertical crack and a horizontal crack at head level for gear placement. For Heart Throb, you can use the same anchor as Night Train, but use a bolt above the roof as a directional. Bring some long slings also (about 10-15ft.) Between Nip and Tuck is a gully with access to the left and right.
On the west end of the rock lies the prominent triangular roof that this route skirts. Crawl up the thin, seamy cracks. Go through two horizontal cracks, up to a small hold (crux move). Stem out and enter the chimney, battle through and out....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
This is one of the best areas for top roping with groups, plenty of routes, plentiful anchors, easy approach, and plenty of parking. This is also a great spot to get students comfortable with rappelling, as the start is straight forward. PLEASE try to keep noise, trash and visibility in control, as this area has had access issues a few years ago, and I believe it is actually private property.
The fact that this route is so popular with guides and groups almost caused disaster this weekend. Hiding from some much needed rain inside our car, my partner and I watched as a whole family was almost hit trying to cross the road. These routes are located at a bend in the canyon, so when crossing there is not much visibility. Please, walk the 100 feet so that you are on one side of the bend or the other and can see at least one direction. Or better yet, park at one of the eight or so spaces on the same side of the road as the crag. If those are all filled, chances are that it is too crowded to be much fun anyways.
Tuck's large dihedral (with topropes on either side, just to the east of Nip)...I cannot remember the name of those. The top anchors consist of two bolts with a chain connecting them. Not sure why the anchors were done this way. Use caution and clip both bolts or at least two separate links of the chain...just for the sake of redundancy. Anyone with a bolt cutter could easily improve these anchors by separating the chains and eliminating the ability for someone to throw a rope over the chain. I don't think "rope over chain" is a generally accepted top anchor and it creates single point of failure.