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Moldy Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cul de Sac Exit 
Fibula Cracks 
Hales Corner 
Mother of Pearl 
Tibia Crack 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: First lead by Jim Erickson
Page Views: 347
Submitted By: Jim McGuire on Nov 1, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The face to the right of CUL-DE-SAC is lower angled,(Devils Lake version of slab climbing), and has a prominent left facing corner leading to a shallow roof. NINE-MINUS offers the easiest of several interesting excursions up this face.

Climb up the corner but move right before you reach the overhang. Angle back left above the overhang to easy ground above. Most climbers don't bother with the upper grungy portion of the climb, Moldy Buttress is aptly named after all.

Having mastered the basic line, it is time to crank it up a notch to TEN-MINUS, 5.10a. Start on the face right of the corner and go up and then left above the overhang as in NINE-MINUS. For a still greater challenge go straight up the face right of the the corner and don't curve left above the overhang, ELEVEN-MINUS, 5.10d.

I have always thought the names were a more accurate reflection of the ratings, but as the 1970 guide says, "This climb is such an easy F9 that it is F8",F8B in fact.


Small gear but placements don't exactly abound on this line.

Photos of Nine-Minus Slideshow Add Photo
Moldly Buttress
BETA PHOTO: Moldly Buttress
Midway on Eleven Minus
Midway on Eleven Minus
Getting out of the alcove is the crux.
Getting out of the alcove is the crux.
Angie does another high-step
Angie does another high-step
Comments on Nine-Minus Add Comment
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By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Dec 14, 2003

All three sound like great climbs! Thanks for your contributions Jim!

By Jim McGuire
Jan 5, 2004

The climber in the above photo is on Fungus. Nine-Minus goes up the extreme left portion of the the picture.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 26, 2005

these are excellantclimbs,also worth doing is Hales Corner 5.10d.