Nine-Minus  5.8

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Type:  Trad, TR, 50 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  First lead by Jim Erickson Submitted By:  Jim McGuire on Nov 1, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Midway on Eleven Minus

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Description 

The face to the right of CUL-DE-SAC is lower angled,(Devils Lake version of slab climbing), and has a prominent left facing corner leading to a shallow roof. NINE-MINUS offers the easiest of several interesting excursions up this face.

Climb up the corner but move right before you reach the overhang. Angle back left above the overhang to easy ground above. Most climbers don't bother with the upper grungy portion of the climb, Moldy Buttress is aptly named after all.

Having mastered the basic line, it is time to crank it up a notch to TEN-MINUS, 5.10a. Start on the face right of the corner and go up and then left above the overhang as in NINE-MINUS. For a still greater challenge go straight up the face right of the the corner and don't curve left above the overhang, ELEVEN-MINUS, 5.10d.

I have always thought the names were a more accurate reflection of the ratings, but as the 1970 guide says, "This climb is such an easy F9 that it is F8",F8B in fact.

Protection 

Small gear but placements don't exactly abound on this line.

Photos of Nine-Minus Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Moldly Buttress	Getting out of the alcove is the crux.	Angie
Angie does another high-step