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Nine Lives starts up a thin slight right facing crack that peters out and gives way to vertical mantleland with fun movement between giant knobs. The crux is protected by the first bolt and requires some bouldery burl to pull up to where a side pull reemerges. Up high, the bolt spacing will have the leader wanting to sling the industrial-farming sized chicken heads.
Left of Skinheads. First bolt visible about 20 feet up. A few nice shallow pods start the climbing.
Thin gear up to #1 camalot and ~7 draws. Trad draws good idea for a few wondering bolts. The Reed guide shows an anchor at the break in the cliff, but that's gone and nice new chains dangle above the largest monster knob ~100ft up and out of sight.
By Clayton Knudson
From: El Portal, CA
Jan 31, 2015
Great climb, found it hard for 11b. Gear/bolts are spaced but in good places. Long sling at the top for a knob would help.