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Nine Horse Johnson 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Bechtel
Page Views: 555
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Sep 19, 2009
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The dreamy lower panel of Nine Horse Johnson.

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Description 

Nine Horse Johnson is an excellent new addition to the Rode Hard Wall, climbing the enormous roof via acrobatic footwork. Its surprising that such an excellent line sat neglected for more than 15 years between two legendary climbs. In any case, this is an excellent moderate, featuring likely the steepest 5.11 climbing at The Wild Iris.

Begin with easy moves up a coral-covered flake. Surmount the flake, then launch onto the beautiful white panel. Sequential, long reaches between sinker two-finger pockets ascend the panel to a so-so shake below the roof. Head left, then out the roof on enormous jugs to the lip. Grope for hard-to see pockets above the lip as the pump builds. An unlikely foothold provides passage when things get desperate.


Location 

The furthest right route on the roof-capped section of the Rode Hard Wall. Also the next route left of Wind & Rattlesnakes.


Protection 

Bolts, 2 Bolt Anchor.



Photos of Nine Horse Johnson Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling through the roof on enormous jugs.
Pulling through the roof on enormous jugs.
Ninja stemming over the lip of Nine Horse Johnson.  The climber at left is on the new variation to Copenhagen Angel, "Full Circle" 5.13-
Ninja stemming over the lip of Nine Horse Johnson....
Finishing up the headwall on positive pockets.
Finishing up the headwall on positive pockets.
Zach Hamilton peering up to the huge roof
Zach Hamilton peering up to the huge roof
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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jun 29, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

This section of wall originally was left blank because up until about 10 years ago, there was a tree blocking the wall. You can see what is left of the tree at the base of 'Nine Horse Johnson' (the roots are at the base of Johnson and the tree tipped over towards Wind and Rattlesnakes).