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Morning Glory Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Nine Gallon Buckets 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 9,329
Submitted By: ScottH on Feb 26, 2006

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Tina starting up the P1 buckets.

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Description 

Nine Gallon Buckets ascends an obvious line of huecos between Cool Ranch Flavor and Overboard. This climb is long and pumpy, and enjoyable the whole way up. There are three sets of anchors on this climb. If you stop at the first, it is 5.9. The second anchor comes after a section of 5.10c, and the third after an additional section of 5.9. You can lower off the highest anchor with a 60 M line.

P1. Begin by heading up steep ground to the first bolt (some will want a stick clip-- the moves are not totally trivial), then follow the massive huecos up and left to the first set of chains (5.9).

P2. Continue heading up and left as the pockets get smaller and sparser. The crux arises soon after leaving the first pitch anchor and involves some tricky sidepulls. Remember to look left if you feel like you are running out of positive features on this pitch! After passing an intermediate anchor the difficulty of the climbing eases, but the pump remains to the final anchor (10c).

Protection 

Bolts.


Photos of Nine Gallon Buckets Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing the large huecos at the beginning of 9-Gallon Buckets. 3/2009.
Climbing the large huecos at the beginning of 9-Ga...
9 gallon is the middle route. Climbers also on Magic Light (left) and Cool Ranch (right)
9 gallon is the middle route. Climbers also on Mag...
Moving, low on 9-Gallon Buckets. 3/2009.
Moving, low on 9-Gallon Buckets. 3/2009.
9 gallon buckets
9 gallon buckets

Comments on Nine Gallon Buckets Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 12, 2013
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 18, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Good clean fun. Link everything in one great 35m pitch. Getting to the first bolt is balancy and committing, so be careful.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 2, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

You can do both "pitches" easily on a 60m rope. Be sure to tie a knot on the belayer end, or better yet, have your belayer tie in to the rope.
By Jeffrey Hyman
From: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Dec 19, 2007

Great Route, Even after the crux when it eases up, it is still blast.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 11, 2008

Agree with all of the above statements. If you can climb to the first bolt you might as well take it to the third anchor because even if you fall up high you will not hit the ground
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Sep 22, 2008

I think a comment needs to be made regarding the opening sequence of this route. Yesterday I was once again a witness to a sketchy and scary fall that occurred before the first bolt had been clipped.

The first 15 feet of this climb are fairly serious and poorly protected. Just because you can climb 5.9 does not mean that you will be comfortable getting to the first bolt. A stick-clip is highly recommended if you aren't totally solid and confident. This is bolted like an old-school climb, and if you've climbed 5.9s elsewhere you're probably going to be in for a surprise.

Many people will find this aggravating and frustrating, but do yourself (and your ankles) a favor by taking some precaution here.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 22, 2008

Seems like Peters comment could be said about almost every route I got on at Smith. An alternative to the stick clip is wait until you are a solid 5.10+ climber then get on it. I watched a kid fall above the first or second bolt and miss the ground by two feet. Not sure why he came so close but it is a dangerous game and you need to be careful.
By Mark Gibson
From: Seattle, WA
Mar 25, 2009

I also agree with Peter. Stick clip the first bolt as the hardest bit is getting off the ground and you really don't want to blow the opening moves. And, if you can climb 5.10 you MUST do the upper section. After grunting through the sidepull/undercling crux the climbing eases considerably, finishing on some of the coolest honeycomb pockets you will ever have the pleasure of sinking your meathooks into.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 23, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The first move of this route is the hardest, imho- after you reach the first hueco, its positive, but not over before the first bolt.

The upper crux is balancy and fun and well protected.
By Eric Olson
Jul 13, 2011

If you are climbing to the top anchors (3rd set), two notes: 1) a 60 meter rope is *just* enough to lower a climber; and 2) I would *not* recommend cleaning the whole route while lowering from the top anchors - this will result in a HUGE swing upon unclipping the lowest draw. We cleaned to the first set of anchors on lowering, then re-climbed the lower part to clean up to there.
By mortly
May 29, 2012

I was climbing this route two weeks ago and pulled off a fist sized rock when I tried to use an obvious undercling near the crux. Thankfully nobody was directly below me.

A few days before I also saw someone pull off two decent sized rocks on the zebra wall.

I thought this was a really good reminder that even the most climbed areas at smith are susceptible to rockfall.

And yet out of the 15+ other people at the wall, no one was using a helmet.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 16, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Don't know about the debate on stick clipping, but if you are climbing at smith rock, then you know that you are climbing at smith rock. Climb to the bolt, clip it and move on. Even if it's 5.9 to the first bolt, the route is 10c so heads up... Look at the tags, climbing is dangerous. Whoops
By donggua
From: Corvallis, Oregon
May 12, 2013

solid smith rock 5.10, good route