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Routes in Merlin Crack Area
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Archie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Merlin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Nimue T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Top Of The TAs V1-2 5 |
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Wizards Apprentice, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 35 ft (11 m) |
| FA: | Anthony Johnson |
| Page Views: | 1,097 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Agjohns on May 2, 2015 |
| Admins: | Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz |
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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon
Details
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Description
Left of Merlin this thin corner is not for the faint of heart. The gear throughout is somewhat marginal and an awkward start means an early fall would likely lead to both climber and belayer tumbling down the steep approach. The climbing is exciting, varied and a little spicy given the gear.
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