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A long (for on pitch) slabby climb that gets easier as you go up. Once you have reached the belay station, you can walk on the slab (though not recommended). The crux is passing the first blot using moderate friction climbing.
Rout starts essentially the same as Great Expectations and the Dihedral. From the start, veer right onto the steep slab past the first bolt, (crux) then continue up to a horizontal crack where a small cam can be placed. Continue up past another bolt and then to a vertical running crack that can be used as protection. Once the crack ends, run it out on easy 5.0 or less friction climbing to the anchor. Use two ropes to rappel down.
Two bolts, small cams (3/4 inch to 2 inch), two rap bolts for anchor at top. Two ropes required for repel.
|By Jim D|
Nov 23, 2011
Very hard to toprope. The velcro-like slab at the top produces a great deal of friction. It doesn't take much to get a rope stuck rapping off this.
A very fun climb. Looks terrifying from the ground, 165 feet with only 2 bolts, but you can get cams in for much of it, and the last 50 feet is seriously 4th class-you're not going to fall if you got this far, I promise.
That said, this is far more serious than Great Expectations, where you always have a bomber hold and can put gear in anywhere you want. The protection goes in well-defined places here, cam, bolt, cam, bolt, cams in the crack, then the long run out.
|By K. Bethke|
May 12, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
Be careful pulling rope it can get stuck in vertical cracks at middle of climb on left side.