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Buck's Bar Dome
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Nightmare 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type: TR, 1 pitch, 40'
FA: unknown
Page Views: 834
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Feb 26, 2005
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Paul attempting Nightmare. Holds are TINY!

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Description 

Steep slab with slopey hands and feet. All the beta i can really give is 'balance well'.

Nightmare is located just left of the obvious finger crack, Dinkum (5.9) on the south face of Buck's Bar Dome.


Protection 

The only way to protect this nightmare is via toprope. From the top of Buck's Bar Dome, employ the right-most anchors.



Photos of Nightmare Slideshow Add Photo
Upper Dinkum Gully (Left). Click for High Resolution version. <br /> <br />(1) Planned Obsolescence (5.8), <br />(2) Blue Ballet (5.10+), <br />(3) Dreamer (5.10+), <br />(4) Nightmare (5.12), <br />(5) Toe Dancing (5.11), <br />(6) Dinkum (5.9), <br />(7) Lap Dancing (5.10d), <br />(8) Fox Trot (5.10d)
BETA PHOTO: Upper Dinkum Gully (Left). Click for High Resoluti...
Boots must be tight for this climb!  Couldn't get mine tight enough!
Boots must be tight for this climb! Couldn't get ...
Brad starting the variation.  Climb up to thin scooping ledge a few feet up and then up and right (right side of rope) to obvious holds leading up to top.
Brad starting the variation. Climb up to thin sco...
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