Nightmare on Crude Street 

This climb is rated 5.10b in Roxanna's new book...it looks like the bolt line was chopped and move a little left. The crux is currently about 4/5 the way up, at the top of the heucos, on a slightly overhung fingerlock. Super fun route, if you are in the Black Corridor, this one is a must do! Awesome kneebar move behind a large flake/heuco feature!

I disagree with the newer rating. The moves off the crimps to pull the buldge near the top are .10d. In my opinion, the easy heucos up to that point aren't enough reason for the downgrade.

Fun, all positive route.

i agree with matt. i was pretty pumped at the top so those crimps seem harder.

Just did this route back in March. Awesome route and crux is definitely 4/5 of the way up.

We did this route recently (08/14/2009) and, since it has been re-bolted, you are now able to climb left of the original line and take advantage of a couple of serious "no hands" rests in the huecos that lead up to the the thin crux with the "slightly overhung fingerlock". I guess this is why the route has been given an easier grade and we felt that the 5.10b grade was spot on. You can still do the original direct finish by going up to the massive glue-in bolt, clipping it, and climbing directly past it.

As of Sept. 13, 2009, this route has seen some bolt replacement. The 3rd, 4th, and 5th bolts, which were spinners and had rusted, have been repleced with 1/2 x 6 in. bolts and FIXE hangers. The anchors, which were loose (one was stripped) and had chain links that were wearning thin due to excessive top-roping and lowering, have also been replaced. All hardware is courtesy of the A.R.I.

Oh shit! Thanks to Mike Moore and the ARI! Unless more of us get involved I think sport will become more dangerous than trad as many of our country's older lines are due for a renovation...

This is mis-sorted it is two to the left of the Heavy Hitter...aka...just right of Friend. Bottom right from left to right (entrance) is Idiot Parade, Foe, Friend, Nightmare on Crude Street, Hips Don't Lie, Heavy Hitter, She's Deadly, M&M, Michael Angelo, Psychobilly, Burros Might Fly, Burros Don't Gamble, Adoption