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Happy Hour Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are We Not Men T,TR 
Are We Not Robots T,TR 
Baby Aliens T 
Bad Sneakers TR 
Bent Faith T 
Big Spit, The T 
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 
Cruel Shoes TR 
Dementia T,TR 
Great Race, The T 
Grins T,TR 
Hands Off T 
I, Robot T,TR 
Last Call T,TR 
Last Laugh T,S,TR 
Malign T,TR 
Nightcap T,TR 
Rush Hour T,TR 
Seein' Double S 
Skid Row T 
Teetotaler T,S,TR 
Tipsey T,TR 
Twofers TR 
Twofers Bypass T,TR 
Twofers Gully T,TR 
Unknown Left Side T 

Nightcap 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Allen Wood, '79
Page Views: 4,131
Submitted By: Kreighton Bieger on Jun 7, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (121)
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At the crux.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a wonderful route. Start about 10-15 feet right of Dementia, work up nebulous terrain to gain a right-facing area with easy cracks. Work up into a thin crack that follows through a bulge. Stem and shimmy your way up and gain a nice, albeit short finger crack to the top. There are no bolts, set a nice anchor and watch the sun set over the canyon.

This is one of my favorite routes in the Canyon, and it is better than its neighbor Grins.

Protection 

Standard rack, no real big gear necessary, up to a #2 Camalot and a few mid-size hexes. Smaller nuts/cams protect the business. A green Alien will protect the crux very well. There are no bolts at the top. Bring something to sling a large boulder and a larger cam or two for the belay.

Eds. there is a natural thread at the anchor.


Photos of Nightcap Slideshow Add Photo
Marga Powell at the crux.  She has a good red Alien in the crack in the corner.  Just above is a short hand crack that will take a #1 Camalot.
Marga Powell at the crux. She has a good red Alie...
7. Last Call, 9+. <br />8. Dementia, 10a. <br />9. Malign, 7. <br />10. Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise, 10a. <br />11. Tipsey, 9. <br />12. Nightcap, 9-.
BETA PHOTO: 7. Last Call, 9+. 8. Dementia, 10a. 9. Malign, 7. ...
Marga Powell at the the traverse to the crux corner.  Get good small cams for pro before moving right.
Marga Powell at the the traverse to the crux corne...
Lance on Nightcap.
Lance on Nightcap.
Being south-facing, Happy Hour is a great winter-time destination.
Being south-facing, Happy Hour is a great winter-t...
Nightcap and Malign.
BETA PHOTO: Nightcap and Malign.

Comments on Nightcap Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 29, 2014
By Travis V
Aug 26, 2001

This is a fun route. It's a little easier than a 5.9, the only 5.9 sections is the small overhang 3/4 the way up. Even thought this site says that it's a trad route, you could easily top rope it with an anchor between a big rock and a tree.
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Nov 14, 2001

I agree with the 3 stars for sure. The 5.9 section is very short indeed, also you dont need to build an anchor if you just run your rope back a little to a tree up and left and belay from here. You can scramble down and right to get to the anchors for 'grins' and rappell or downclimb. A very enjoyable route with a mix of everything. Enjoy..
By Hayden Yurkanis
Sep 25, 2003

You might like having RPs for this climb, because the part below the crux is a bit tricky as well. A really good climb and a lot better than it looks from the ground.
By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 25, 2003

Right you are, Jay; this pitch is a lot more interesting than it looks from the ground.
By Brian Weinstein
Nov 12, 2003
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Fun route, a good one to warm up on before hitting some of the other moderates. It didn't seem of very sustained nature. The crux was short, some interesting little bulges on the granite. Plenty of gear placements, seems like a good first 9 lead. Overall, Happy Hour is a great place to work on placing gear to your heart's delight while being able to challenge yourself.
By Michael Kullman
Nov 17, 2003

Definitely a nice route, not very sustained (much like Grins in that regard) but does have some tricky moves.
By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Jun 10, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great Route! I protected the crux with a green Alien, I actually took a very clean fall through the crux and the Alien was bomber.
By Joe Brannan
From: Lyons, CO
Aug 27, 2008

First 5.9 lead and it was awesome. Gear is easy and abundant. Had to hang on the rope a bit at the crux but eventually sacked up and made the move.
By Goat
From: Boulder
Jun 14, 2009

Fun route with great movement. You'll find that the crux is evident, but not in the way of a good send; get high feet.
By Count Chockula
From: Littleton, CO
Sep 12, 2010

I also had some trouble with the crux move in the corner. I may have plugged up the key finger lock for the right hand with a #0.5, so I French-freed the move to get my feet high enough to snag a good left hand finger lock and I was out of the corner.

I think I made the move harder than it needed to be, though.
By farkas.time
From: Sheffield, SY
Jun 12, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Really nice climb! Highly recommended. Well protected, long and fun.

I recommend bouldering to the obvious 3 inch crack about 25 feet up and plugging a Camalot #4.
By Ketchup
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 29, 2014

There is now a two bolt anchor with rings just below the top of this climb.