|Happy Hour Crag
This is a wonderful route. Start about 10-15 feet right of Dementia, work up nebulous terrain to gain a right-facing area with easy cracks. Work up into a thin crack that follows through a bulge. Stem and shimmy your way up and gain a nice, albeit short finger crack to the top. There are no bolts, set a nice anchor and watch the sun set over the canyon.
This is one of my favorite routes in the Canyon, and it is better than its neighbor Grins.
Standard rack, no real big gear necessary, up to a #2 Camalot and a few mid-size hexes. Smaller nuts/cams protect the business. A green Alien will protect the crux very well. There are no bolts at the top. Bring something to sling a large boulder and a larger cam or two for the belay.
Eds. there is a natural thread at the anchor.
Marga Powell at the crux. She has a good red Alie...
BETA PHOTO: 7. Last Call, 9+.
8. Dementia, 10a.
9. Malign, 7.
Marga Powell at the the traverse to the crux corne...
Lance on Nightcap.
Being south-facing, Happy Hour is a great winter-t...
BETA PHOTO: Nightcap and Malign.
|By Nathaniel Dray|
6 days ago
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
There is a nest of wasps in a crack on the right-facing wall about 15-20 feet up on Nightcap. They are clearly visible when you get close. It's easy enough to keep your body/rope away from them, but you have to pass right by them. I imagine they will get more active as the weather warms - they were not moving much today.
|By Travis V|
Aug 26, 2001
This is a fun route. It's a little easier than a 5.9, the only 5.9 sections is the small overhang 3/4 the way up. Even thought this site says that it's a trad route, you could easily top rope it with an anchor between a big rock and a tree.
|By Jeff Lockyer|
From: Canmore, AB
Nov 14, 2001
I agree with the 3 stars for sure. The 5.9 section is very short indeed, also you dont need to build an anchor if you just run your rope back a little to a tree up and left and belay from here. You can scramble down and right to get to the anchors for 'grins' and rappell or downclimb. A very enjoyable route with a mix of everything. Enjoy..
|By Hayden Yurkanis|
Sep 25, 2003
You might like having RPs for this climb, because the part below the crux is a bit tricky as well. A really good climb and a lot better than it looks from the ground.
|By Eric Goltz|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 25, 2003
Right you are, Jay; this pitch is a lot more interesting than it looks from the ground.
|By Brian Weinstein|
Nov 12, 2003
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
Fun route, a good one to warm up on before hitting some of the other moderates. It didn't seem of very sustained nature. The crux was short, some interesting little bulges on the granite. Plenty of gear placements, seems like a good first 9 lead. Overall, Happy Hour is a great place to work on placing gear to your heart's delight while being able to challenge yourself.
|By Michael Kullman|
Nov 17, 2003
Definitely a nice route, not very sustained (much like Grins in that regard) but does have some tricky moves.
|By David Hodges|
From: Parker, Colorado
Jun 10, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Great Route! I protected the crux with a green Alien, I actually took a very clean fall through the crux and the Alien was bomber.
|By Joe Brannan|
From: Erie, CO
Aug 27, 2008
First 5.9 lead and it was awesome. Gear is easy and abundant. Had to hang on the rope a bit at the crux but eventually sacked up and made the move.
Jun 14, 2009
Fun route with great movement. You'll find that the crux is evident, but not in the way of a good send; get high feet.
|By Count Chockula|
From: Littleton, CO
Sep 12, 2010
I also had some trouble with the crux move in the corner. I may have plugged up the key finger lock for the right hand with a #0.5, so I French-freed the move to get my feet high enough to snag a good left hand finger lock and I was out of the corner.
I think I made the move harder than it needed to be, though.
From: Sheffield, SY
Jun 12, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
Really nice climb! Highly recommended. Well protected, long and fun.
I recommend bouldering to the obvious 3 inch crack about 25 feet up and plugging a Camalot #4.