Begin just left of the Sanity Assassin Off width. Climb a easy dihedral to a big flake. Jam Or Layback the flake until you get under the bulge. Clip a bolt then make some powerful moves on good holds over the bulge. Some laid down climbing leads to a moderate rest. Next is the crux, either go straight up on small holds, or reach out left to the sloping arete until you reach a jug. Clip a piton, then make some balancy Tip jams that lead to a small ledge below the anchor.
The second pitch is 5.9 trad that leads to the top of the cliff, but it is likely that no one has done it in a long time, meaning it would be really dirty.
Just left of the Sanity Assassin block, right of the sign in a small corner.
P1: 3 Bolts, 1 Piton, Gear to 2 inches, 3 bolt anchor with yellow webbing.
|By Ian G.|
From: PDX, OR
Oct 11, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Piton looks suspect. You can place a "good enough" yellow TCU right by it though if you want to back it up.