|West Buttress aka Comedy Wall
I thought this was a challenging and interesting climb, but, if you don't messing with wide cracks, you may disagree. It's just a bit dirty at the start. Then stemming and some strangeness leads to what was for me a mysterious crux near the top.
Rossiter and Rolofson call this 5.8, but it seemed pretty hard compared to some of the 9s at Blob, so I'll give it a 9.
The two-bolt anchor, though convenient, is recent and unnecessary, since you can easily scramble down and left from the anchor to the ground.
Start: From where the trail hits the base of Blob, hike left and up. Scramble up a slab. There is a large, right-facing corner (Divine Wind). Left of that is a roof with a couple of very hard, bolted lines. Left of that is the large left facing corner of Night Stalker.
A few stemming moves get your hands to a ledge. You can place a green Alien from the ground to keep you upright, should you fall here. With your hands on the ledge, you can place a hand-sized (or two) at the base of the corner. Once you're standing on the ledge the climbing up the corner is straightforward until you get to a wide section with some strangeness. Easy climbing leads to steeper rock and the crux. Save at least a #4 Friend for the crux.
Double cams from green Alien to #4 Friend (#3 Camalot may be too small). A #4 Camalot will make it a bit more secure. Single set of nuts. Rap from a 2-bolt anchor with one rope.
Night Stalker is the large shadowed left facing co...
The crux is where the left wall bulges out to almo...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the top.
BETA PHOTO: Night Stalker. Climb the left-facing corner with ...
Peering up into the second wide part. It's pretty ...
Stem the right facing corner off the ground until ...
BETA PHOTO: The upper crux area.
Entering the first wide part. It's not unpleasant,...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the "walkoff" descent.
|By S. Kimball|
Nov 24, 2005
Quite good and surprisingly sustained, rate it 5.9. The subsidiary flake at the crux is questionable for protection, take Ivan's advice and carry several # 4's.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Jan 30, 2011
Definitely a worthwhile stop on the Obscure Tour, and a good warm-up for the harder trad climbs in this neighborhood.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Nov 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
This is a fun route. I agree that it has a few 5.9 sections on it. I think the anchor is nice. You could walk off, but it is a little dangerous with steep, exposed, climbing near the bottom.