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You can face left and chimney or face right using ...
I thought this was a challenging and interesting climb, but, if you don't messing with wide cracks, you may disagree. It's just a bit dirty at the start. Then stemming and some strangeness leads to what was for me a mysterious crux near the top.
Rossiter and Rolofson call this 5.8, but it seemed pretty hard compared to some of the 9s at Blob, so I'll give it a 9.
The two-bolt anchor, though convenient, is recent and unnecessary, since you can easily scramble down and left from the anchor to the ground.
Start: From where the trail hits the base of Blob, hike left and up. Scramble up a slab. There is a large, right-facing corner (Divine Wind
). Left of that is a roof with a couple of very hard, bolted lines. Left of that is the large left facing corner of Night Stalker.
A few stemming moves get your hands to a ledge. You can place a green Alien from the ground to keep you upright, should you fall here. With your hands on the ledge, you can place a hand-sized (or two) at the base of the corner. Once you're standing on the ledge the climbing up the corner is straightforward until you get to a wide section with some strangeness. Easy climbing leads to steeper rock and the crux. Save at least a #4 Friend for the crux.
Double cams from green Alien to #4 Friend (#3 Camalot may be too small). A #4 Camalot will make it a bit more secure. Single set of nuts. Rap from a 2-bolt anchor with one rope.
Night Stalker is the large shadowed left facing co...
The crux is where the left wall bulges out to almo...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the top.
BETA PHOTO: Night Stalker. Climb the left-facing corner with ...
Peering up into the second wide part. It's pretty ...
Stem the right facing corner off the ground until ...
BETA PHOTO: The upper crux area.
Entering the first wide part. It's not unpleasant,...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the "walkoff" descent.
By S. Kimball
Nov 24, 2005
Quite good and surprisingly sustained, rate it 5.9. The subsidiary flake at the crux is questionable for protection, take Ivan's advice and carry several # 4's.
By Dougald MacDonald
Jan 30, 2011
Definitely a worthwhile stop on the Obscure Tour, and a good warm-up for the harder trad climbs in this neighborhood.
By Jay Eggleston
Nov 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This is a fun route. I agree that it has a few 5.9 sections on it. I think the anchor is nice. You could walk off, but it is a little dangerous with steep, exposed, climbing near the bottom.