Wow, this thing is hard. My big toes still hurt three days later and Iím not sure if I ever want to get back up there. The line is a little contrived but none the less itís still a good rock climb and youíll have a fun time trying to move off those dime edges.
For the first three pitches the route follows the large black steak between the Regular Route and Heart of Stone. On pitch four traverse right along the dike for about twenty feet and head up the thin golden plates (these are your hand and foot holds). Pitch five is the crux, much similar to pitch four just harder. Three more pitches of easier climbing bring you to the large U-shaped ledge. From there you can rappel (two rope required) or climb two easy pitches to the top of the dome.
You wonít get lost on this climb because itís heavily bolted almost the whole way. The last two pitches wander a little but thereís enough bolts to keep you on track, bring some 1/4 to 1 inch cams for these pitches.
Between the Regular Route and Heart of Stone.
12 Draws, 1/4 to 1 inch cams
|By Brad G|
From: Yosemite and else where
Jul 5, 2009
The guide book gives this route a 5.12 rating but if could be harder due to fragile edges (holds) breaking and crumbling. My partner and I broke a few.
|By Jeff Scheuerell|
Jul 6, 2014
I thought the first 3 pitches were great. Bailed on the 4th, got tired of falling, but it also seemed good. I look forward to getting back on it with a rope gun.
|By Christina Freschl|
From: Berkeley, California
Jul 22, 2014
Great route. Well protected, but a bit crusty. Small edges are easy to break off, be careful. We felt that the 11+ pitch was as hard as the 12 pitch. The last two pitches are very traversing and confusing. We were unable to find the last two bolted anchors that were drawn on the Falcon topo.
6 days ago
The smallest of the small edges won't break - only the more friable looking ones will - they can be avoided at most times. Pitch 7 doesn't have a an anchor - the last bolt, bolt 6 was originally to be the anchor station - if one goes left about 50 feet there is small corner where a gear anchor can be built with a .5and a .4. There is also no anchor at the end of pitch 8 in the U-shaped bowl.