Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Lost Angel
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.9 Crack T 
AAArete S 
Archangel S 
Autumn S 
Awakenings S 
Be Here Now T,S 
Boy's World T 
Caterer, The S 
China Doll T 
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 
Crazy Wisdom T,S 
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 
Disneyland S 
Divination S 
Divination Direct S 
Drop Zone S 
Dynamometer S 
Dyno ArÍte S 
Earth Voyage S 
Freedom S 
Fright Grooves T 
Host, The S 
Hunky Monkey S 
Interzone T 
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 
Killing in the Name T 
Knowoneness T 
Life on Mars S 
Long Dong Dihedral T 
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 
Naked Lunch S 
Night Grooves S 
Podophobia S 
Primal Cinema S 
Rage Against The Machine T,S 
Raise the Titanic S 
Rock Odyssey S 
Rush S 
Shape Shifters T 
Shunyata T 
Signs of Life S 
Spiders From Mars T 
Standard Route S 
Strange Cargo S 
Take the Power Back T 
Technical Remote Viewing S 
Time Traveler T,TR 
Vaino Step, The S 
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 
Weenie Roast T 
Wide Crack T 
Zentropa T,S 

Night Grooves 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ryan Willard, Todd Bol
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,284
Submitted By: Ryan W. on Jul 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Richard from Australia on Night Grooves.

Description 

Night Grooves is now the farthest left bolted line on the Zen Garden section of the Lost Angel Wall. Scramble down the gully in between Dream Dome and the Lost Angel wall, and turn left down a 4th class gully to the good ledge left of the large tree, or alternately rap down from the anchors atop Time Traveler (exposed).

This route starts about 15 feet left of tTime Traveler on the obvious ledge. It is a thought provoking slab climb with very thin crimp features and thumb mantels characterizing the main crux moves which come early, and then the route stays consistent until around the fifth bolt with fun moves onto the upper slab with one last bolt before the anchors.

Protection 

6 bolts to the anchors on top of Time Traveler (a shoulder length sling is helpful for last bolt).


Photos of Night Grooves Slideshow Add Photo
It's hammer time!
It's hammer time!
Drilling in the dark to set up night Grooves for the FA..
Drilling in the dark to set up night Grooves for t...
Todd Bol on his onsight and the second ascent of Night Grooves.
Todd Bol on his onsight and the second ascent of N...
Looking up from the start of Night Grooves before the bolts graced this beautiful slab..
Looking up from the start of Night Grooves before ...

Comments on Night Grooves Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jun 5, 2014

The last bolt on this route can be easily clipped from Time Traveler. On one hand the FA party has altered the character of an existing route. On the other hand, Time Traveler now actually does have two bolts, instead of the original one bolt, so all the incorrect guidebook information stating that the route has two bolts is now correct. Kind of a conundrum.