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|Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>|
Start at the smooth face between City Lights
and Frog's Head
. Move up an indistinct, left-leaning ramp: this starts about 10-15 off the ground, and it is directly below a very small tree. At the end of the ramp, climb the face straight up to the belay ledge, walk right to the Frog's Head
bolts. The crux is the first 20 feet or so.
The current guide lists this as 5.9. From what I can remember and from what was told to me by a long-time 'Gunks climber who did the climb, it is 5.10 of one sort or another. Either way, it's only a one star route: clean rock and decent moves, but no real line.
By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
It's okay as a toprope off the Frog's Head anchor. Otherwise it's a highball boulder problem, 'cuz there's no gear. I think it's best to start ~10 feet right of the left-angling ramp, climb up 6 feet, then traverse left. I didn't quite send it, but mid-10s feels more accurate than the book's 5.9.
By Scott Michelsen
Aug 4, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Felt like 5.9, great stand up move.