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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Routes Sorted
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Arc of a Diver T 
Arch T 
Arch Direct T 
Baby T 
Billy Shears T 
Bloody Bush T 
Bloody Mary T 
City Lights T 
Crusty Waffles T 
Drunkard's Delight T 
Easy Overhang T 
Fetus T 
Frog's Head T 
Jean T 
Kama Sutra T,TR 
Link-Up: Sixish to roof of Drunkard's Delight T 
Maria T 
Maria Direct T 
Maria Redirect T,TR 
Morning After T 
Night Fall T 
Pas de Deux T 
Patty Duke T 
Precarious Perch T 
Rock and Brew T 
Rusty Trifle T 
Scungilli T 
Sixish T 
Size Matters T 
Son of Easy O T 
Sultana T 
Sundown T 
Trusty Rifle T 
Twisted Sister T 
Uncle Rudy T 
Wrist T 

Night Fall 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Dixon, Dana Bartlett, 1994
Page Views: 386
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Mar 24, 2011

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Route description 

Start at the smooth face between City Lights and Frog's Head. Move up an indistinct, left-leaning ramp: this starts about 10-15 off the ground, and it is directly below a very small tree. At the end of the ramp, climb the face straight up to the belay ledge, walk right to the Frog's Head bolts. The crux is the first 20 feet or so.

The current guide lists this as 5.9. From what I can remember and from what was told to me by a long-time 'Gunks climber who did the climb, it is 5.10 of one sort or another. Either way, it's only a one star route: clean rock and decent moves, but no real line.



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By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
Apr 21, 2014

It's okay as a toprope off the Frog's Head anchor. Otherwise it's a highball boulder problem, 'cuz there's no gear. I think it's best to start ~10 feet right of the left-angling ramp, climb up 6 feet, then traverse left. I didn't quite send it, but mid-10s feels more accurate than the book's 5.9.