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 ADVANCED
North End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Argonaut , The TR 
Awakening Spirits T 
Bat Attack T,S 
Boogie Till ya Puke T 
ByPass T 
Death Wish T 
Enduro Man Rides Again T 
Filet-O-Fish T 
Indian Head Direct T 
indian toe T 
Joy Loader T 
Juggerhead T 
Juggernaut T 
Lark's Tongue T 
Middle Road S 
Mighty Mouse T 
Nevermore T 
Nevermore (The other one) T 
Nicotine T,S 
Nutsweat T 
Rastafari T 
Reckless Abandon T 
Recommendation, The S 
Shadowdance T 
Spice T 
Superman's Dead T 
Unknown T 
Vascular Disaster T 
Visual Splendor T 
War Games T,S 
Windigo T 

Nicotine 

YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Eric Zschiesche and Porter Jarrard
Season: Late Summer - Fall
Page Views: 1,212
Submitted By: Christopher Barlow on Nov 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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E.Z. on early attempt of recently equipped Nicotin...

Description 

Nicotine was Moore's first 5.13, a fact evidenced by the rusty bolts. While pretty stout for the 13a rating given by guidebooks (for me, it was as hard if not harder than Zeus), it is nevertheless a worthwhile endeavor with technical moves (including a devious throw), excellent rock, and a bit of spice that only a Moore's Wall sport climb can offer.

While Nicotine does have an independent finish, it may or may not have anchors. Feel free to venture up the lichen-covered rock to see if they exist. I opted to finish on Mighty Mouse's final crack and anchor.

Location 

Nicotine is located on the second main North End buttress, left of Vascular Disaster and just right of Mighty Mouse. It begins off the stacked boulders (the same start as Middle Road and Boogie) but steps just left and climbs clean, gray rock through two bulges. Above, it crosses a white face to a red band where can step left onto the Mighty Mouse finish.

Protection 

A Moore's Wall "sport climb": 5 bolts, a fixed pin (sticking way out from the rock but seems solid otherwise), and finger-hand size cams for the Mighty Mouse crack at the top. Mighty Mouse's anchor seems like the best way to descend.


Photos of Nicotine Slideshow Add Photo
Able Jones entering the crux of Nicotine
Able Jones entering the crux of Nicotine

Comments on Nicotine Add Comment
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By sean barb
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Feb 1, 2009

back when i climbed it, nicotine had its own independent anchor. i racked up with a small tcu that protected some fun climbing between the pin and an anchor of equalized nuts. i'm relying on memories of at least 12y ago, but it seems that the anchor was roughly the same height as the mighty mouse anchor; higher than the middle road anchor ledge. the anchor just sorta rotted away and most ascents these days just traverse over to mighty mouse.
By gloomis
Oct 27, 2013

This classic line once again has it's own independent anchor. Don't miss out on some balancy 5.10 moves which lead to the second fixed pin that protects steep 5.8 before the anchor. Thanks to Sean Barb for the hardware and to Tim Fisher for his expertise in it's placement. Enjoy