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Fire Wall and Upper Tier
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Nicole's Corner 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Nicole Heckmann, Dan Greenwald
Page Views: 283
Submitted By: Ian Donnelly on Aug 16, 2012
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Description 

Start 10 feet right of dead tree. Crux move is right off the ground and can be protected with small gear or avoided by starting by dead tree and traversing to first bolt, which keeps the route at 5.9.


Location 

On The Block, middle route


Protection 

6 bolts



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By Matthias Lang
From: Albuquerque
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Nice route but I have a couple of notes:
Thought the end was the crux and not the beginning.
In the middle section I found the position of the bolts a bit odd, meaning that hard moves came right before the bolts. Once clipped, an easier section followed. Therefore I think 5.9 leaders, that think about skipping the start, would probably not feel comfortable on this route.

By Dan Greenwald
Sep 25, 2012

Update: I removed the 3rd bolt and added one bolt below and one above its hole. This makes the route well protected. As far as the crux at the last bolt, the key is to move right around the arete by the last bolt. If you follow the seam just below the last bolt and reach around the arete, then you will find a huge jug all while below or even with the last bolt. For what its worth, the FA led it as her first 5.9 lead.