|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Nicole Heckmann, Dan Greenwald|
|Submitted By:||Ian Donnelly on Aug 16, 2012|
|Comments on Nicole's Corner||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Matthias Lang
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nice route but I have a couple of notes:
Thought the end was the crux and not the beginning.
In the middle section I found the position of the bolts a bit odd, meaning that hard moves came right before the bolts. Once clipped, an easier section followed. Therefore I think 5.9 leaders, that think about skipping the start, would probably not feel comfortable on this route.
By Dan Greenwald
Sep 25, 2012
|Update: I removed the 3rd bolt and added one bolt below and one above its hole. This makes the route well protected. As far as the crux at the last bolt, the key is to move right around the arete by the last bolt. If you follow the seam just below the last bolt and reach around the arete, then you will find a huge jug all while below or even with the last bolt. For what its worth, the FA led it as her first 5.9 lead.|