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Lower Blair I
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Unsorted Routes:

Nick's Loose Flake Variation 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 924
Submitted By: Matt Richardson on Aug 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: Nick's Loose Flake - Ila on top 2/3 of climb. Hand...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a worthwhile alternative to the second pitch of Le Petit Arbre. Take the first pitch of that route to the giant ledge. Scoot the belay over about 20' to a nice hand size crack with a large flake just to the left of that crack. Ascend either the crack itself (for the full valued 7) or use the flake on the upper portion (probably somewhere at 6) to a set of bolted anchors. Both of worthwhile, but utilizing only the hand crack is definitely the more aesthetic way of ascending the route.

Location 

This route is located on the ledge that marks the start to the second pitch of Le Petit Arbre, just 20' to the left of the finish of Le Petit Arbre.

Protection 

Several hand-sized pieces. Bolted anchors are there for rapping.


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By Patrick Machacek
Sep 21, 2009

I was just up there yesterday (9/20/09) and both of the bolts at the top seemed a little loose. Just a heads up to plan on setting an anchor when you get to the top.
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Rap gets you all the way to the ground on a 60m.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Sep 28, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Someone must've tightened/replaced those bolts; I was up there last weekend (Sept. of 2011) and they were bomber.
By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
Oct 17, 2011

I was up here today (10/16/11), and the bolts are still a tad loose. The climber's right bolt is looser, but both hangers are loose.

Top Rope Hero, is it possible you were on a different route? These bolts were definitely not bomber bolts.
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 26, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Bolts seemed tight to me. The rock is typical of the more crystalline Vedauwoo rock, and so the crystals interfere a bit with the three "tripod" points on the hangers.