Nickels and Dimes  5.10c

405 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  G. Kremer & D. Grob Submitted By:  Jeff Stephens on Sep 12, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Excellent steep slab climb on perfect granite. Start up the steepening slab to the first bolt and don't forget to breathe. Clear a small lip, take advantage of the big rest in the middle, and then levitate up the face. Distribute your weight thoughtfully and squeeze a tiny flaky hourglass to pull through the crux. Do NOT bail into the chossy corner to the right. Nice and long, so make sure to have two ropes if you want to get down. Otherwise, you'll be compelled to fire the 5.12 roof crack that looms above.

Location 

On left side of Weller Slab. Locate bolts about 60 feet left of Two Ears. 2 ropes for descent.

Protection 

10 bolts to a nice ledge with bolt anchor and 75 pounds of chain. Perkins' guide says 8 bolts. Wrong!