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High Wire Crag
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People's Choice S 
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Nickels and Dimes 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Richard Wright
Page Views: 6,798
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Mar 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (179)
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Lee and Robert on Nickles and Dimes.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route follows the far right bolt line on High Wire, where the trail meets up with the rock. The route travels right underneath a large triangular right-facing block/flake. The anchors end up about 5' to the right of the anchors for People's Choice. See R. Wright's comments under People's Choice for more.

Addendum: you can continue up and right of People's Choice's second pitch for another moderate pitch (?5.5) on gear.

Per Bill Olszewski: the thin flake under the main system flexes.

Protection 

7 bolts? to a 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Nickels and Dimes Slideshow Add Photo
Erik Marr climbing Nickles and Dimes (photo from the 2nd set of anchors on People's Choice).
Erik Marr climbing Nickles and Dimes (photo from t...
Ross Downer working the flake system on Nickles and Dimes.
Ross Downer working the flake system on Nickles an...
Minda working through the upper part of the crux.  The People's Choice dihedral (P3) can be seen directly above.
Minda working through the upper part of the crux. ...
Approaching the big flake.
Approaching the big flake.
Ben Mottinger works around the crux of this short pitch.
Ben Mottinger works around the crux of this short ...
Having fun while rappelling.
Having fun while rappelling.
Caitlin workin' the crack.
Caitlin workin' the crack.

Comments on Nickels and Dimes Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 7, 2014
By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Jan 1, 2001

Although a bit contrived - avoiding the flake offers a great sequence of edges to the anchors - probably 10a, lots of fun!
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 3, 2001

This was the first route my wife and I hopped on out of the truck on our last Colorado trip. We figured it was a 5.7 or 5.8. I found the crux to be just before the huge flake just like the other route description. A nice route to hop on and warm up on.
By Chris Carr
Feb 24, 2002

We accidentally did this route instead of the first pitch of "People's Choice" and found it to be a wonderful face climb or a warm up for harder stuff. I do this route every trip to the High Wire and each time I try to do it differently, and I've found that, while it makes the route easier, the flake offers a number of quite fun variations to the climb overall.
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 21, 2002

I found this climb (not using the flake) to be more enjoyable, more sustained, and more thoughtful than the first pitch of People's Choice. I thought the first pitch of People's Choice had one or two challenging moves just before the slab flattened out, while Nickles and Dimes had a longer crux sequence.
By Ryan Henry
From: Golden, Colorado
Aug 8, 2006

Just led this one today, and it was great. I agree with the 5.9 if you use the flake, otherwise the face was around 10b or c. It also works great for top-roping and practicing technical slab moves, (very balancy through the middle section). It is harder than it looks, so don't take it as a joke.
By Jonathan Reeves
From: Golden, Colorado
Aug 16, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One of my favorite climbs if you don't use the flake. I would say the slabby moves to the vertical crack at the ledge would make it 5.10c. I would say it is a bit harder than People's Choice if you don't use the flake and a solid 5.8 with the flake.
By Greg Woodward
Oct 5, 2010

Did this climb today after hopping on People's Choice. I found the crux to be just after the 3rd or 4th bolt before get to the big flake on the right side. Before getting to the flake, the face flattens out offering a good lower left foot and higher notch for your right. Pretty slabby, this must be 5.10ish, because it felt comparable to the 1st pitch slab on PC. After the slab, it's very straightforward 5.8/5.9.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 12, 2011

Led the first pitch only. Feels 5.8 using the flake system. Be aware that the thin flake under the main system flexes - I would recommend avoiding it. Staying on the bolt line and skipping the entire flake system yields a nice crimpy variation that feels about .10b.
By James Hicks
From: Denver, CO
Oct 13, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The anchors could use some attention. The rings are fine, but the links that are at the end of the chains are in poor shape. Don't top rope off the links until they're replaced. Doing so risks getting your rope cut. Setting a top rope off of the bolts is still fine, and the rap rings are fine as well.

Honestly I'm not sure what anyone uses those links for, considering how easy it is to build an anchor from the bolts.
By Alex Badgett
From: Golden, CO
Apr 2, 2014

Climbed this today, and the 5th bolt didn't feel too solid. I'm still pretty new to outdoor climbing, so I could be totally wrong, but I figured this was worth throwing out there!
By Benjamin Lantow
May 31, 2014

Climbed this today, 3rd? bolt seemed a little sketch, spun and had rust around it. Anchors must have been revised since the post in 2013, solid single link with rap rings and bolts looked and felt fine. Agree that this is solid 5.8/5.8+ climbing if using the flake system with a couple of excellent slab moves.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jun 7, 2014

On May 29, Dale Haas and I replaced the old, worn hardware at the anchor with stainless steel quicklinks and rings. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.