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Nickel 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Head Crew
Page Views: 222
Submitted By: Paul Heyliger on Mar 15, 2006

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Description 

Nickel is located on the left wall of The Shaft. It starts just right of the obvious trad crack of Silver at a thinner seam-crack with face holds. This route is best identified by the bulging, huecoed wall on the route's upper half.

Nickel begins with a stout sequence leading to the crack with jams that are at times less-than-locker. Crank up this (11d) to a good rest below the great-looking huecoed wall. The crux of the route takes the bulge and headwall above. The quality of the easier finishing moves drops precipitously up the final wide crack to the anchors.

Scoping the route carefully from the ground might give a good idea of which hueco might contain the best hold. Or maybe not. Either way, a very good route.

Location 

After you enter the shaft, go down through the narrow spot towards the right side (facing the left wall) of the rock.

Protection 

10-12 draws for this, the longest route thus far in the Shaft.


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By slim
Administrator
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

really, really good route, but you would have to completely avoid using either crack whatsoever to approach 12a. this isn't really realistic though, as it would basically limit the route to a swath of rock about 2 feet wide.

the huecos aren't as bad as the sound in the guidebook description, but it helps to be creative with how you used them.

bolt job on this one was excellent, with good clipping stances and protection locations. a good one to push your limits on.