Nick Of Time 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 95 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Ron Olsen and Nickie Kelly, 6/8/07 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Jun 10, 2007 |
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Description Nick Of Time is a fun, trad dihedral on the right side of Sport Land. Bring some big gear if you want to lead this one!
Start at a 2-bolt belay anchor just up and right from the anchor for Total Eclipse. Climb a slab past a bolt to the base of the corner. Stem, layback, and jam up the wide crack in the corner to its top on a pinnacle.
Rap 95' back to the start from a 2-bolt anchor.
If you didn't bring gear, you can toprope this route after leading Face Off (5.8 sport) or the first pitch of Stayin' Alive (5.9 sport).
Location On the right side of Sport Land, just right of Sidekick. Start at a 2-bolt belay anchor just up and right of the starting anchor for Total Eclipse. Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.
Protection 2-bolt belay anchor at the start. 1 bolt on the starting slab, then 1"-4" gear. I used a #1 Camalot, #2 Camalot, 2 #3 Camalots, a #3.5 Camalot, and a #4 Camalot to sew it up.
2-bolt anchor at the top, shared with Face Off and Stayin' Alive.
By Tradsplatter
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2007
rating: 5.6
| Climbed this nice corner line with the recommended big cams. After the gardening and beta from the FA, it probably seems not as difficult to subsequent leaders. Giving it a 5.6 rating with maybe a borderline 5.7 move at bulge. Nevertheless, it was a fun route with some nice holds throughout. Top anchors are well placed and convenient belay anchors at bottom make this a very easy, enjoyable, trad route on otherwise sporty face. Nice job, Ron! |
By Split
From: Boulder
Jun 27, 2007
rating: 5.6
| I agree that this is probably more like 5.6, but it may also be that it only has one move at the bulge that is harder and the rest is a lot easier. The largest cam I used was a #2 Camalot at the bulge. If you look around, there is plenty of smaller stuff if you don't want to bring bigger gear. |
By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 13, 2008
rating: 5.5
| I would say the bulge is maybe 5.6, but it is only one move and the rest is easy and fun with big holds and lots of pro placements. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 16, 2009
rating: 5.6
| A good route with good gear if you bring bigger stuff instead of stoppers, as suggested. Felt as hard at the sport 5.8 to the right, both are probably 5.6. |
By Michael Lucky
From: Charleston, SC
Jun 29, 2012
| I used up my #2 and #3 C4 early on and didn't have much trouble finding placements for small nuts and a red C3 later on, a bunch of #3-#4 C4s would be the easiest but are not necessary. |
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