This is one of the best .10 crack climbs around. It has all sizes, starts off big and goes to fist, hand, and eventually bitchin finger locks.
If you have ever climbed Classic Crack and looked across at Outer Outlet you have most likely seen this beautiful crack. Approach is the same for Jugs.
two #4 camalots
two #3.5 camalots
two # 3 camalots
one #1,#2 camalots
set o nuts
A number 4.5 or five camalot would be nice for the bottom. You can sling a horn down low, and there is a fixed hex a little ways up. As always take a few more pieces if you dont care for sliding gear up a bit. Oh yeah no anchor up top but some nuts should do the job and the sit stance is fine for an old school body belay.
Good finger locks at the top of Nick of Time, most...
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 24, 2008
The first ascent was by Bob Kamps and Richard Goldstone, August 7, 1968.
We also climbed the chimney just left of the NOT. I recall perhaps a bit of 5.9. Not even remotely as good a route though.
|By randy baum|
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 15, 2008
I found no anchors at the top. Does anyone know why there are none?
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Jul 15, 2008
That is a good question? I am pretty sure the first bolt I ever drilled was on top of Nick. It would have been a ways back from the edge as was the custom back then. Forgot a hammer and spent thirty minutes using a rock as a hammer to drill it.
|By Andy Busse|
From: Rapid City, SD
Oct 7, 2008
The hex is MIA.
|By Monica Jones|
Sep 17, 2010
Wild. Only had two #4's and a 4.5" cam for almost the entire route. At the very top I got some smaller pieces in. Walked pieces and downclimbed a couple times to retrieve big pieces to place higher. Really cool crack, such a beautiful splitter. Classic.