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On the first pitch of Nick Danger 5.10, on the Sun...
Not actually dangerous except for one or two heady moves at the start of P1.
P1, 5.10a. Spicy moves lead to a pin and a bolt. Trend up and right on "eyebrows" to a deep horizontal 15" below a bulge system and belay on 1 to 2" gear. 100" (or link P1 and P2).
P2, 5.10. Crank straight off the belay into the bulge system with a #1 camalot for pro. Pull the bulge with a sloper or two to great incuts and great pro. Fight the pump and head for stacked pins. As the angle changes slab up to horizontal and belay with small to med gear. 120"
P3, 5.8. Climb off the belay heading up and right for bolted anchors on Irish Jig. 100"
Rejoyce in your send of this Sun Wall Classic.
100 yds rock right of Tits and Beer. 100 Yds rock left of Southender. Start at a low angle slab look for a slight left facing corner looking for a pin and a bolt. Rap from Irish Jig with two 60m ropes.
Doubles in #1 and #2 cams are helpful. Double sets TCU's very helpful as well. Tri-cams are a great bet as well. P1 and P2 anchors are gear. Bolts at the top of P3. This is the rap station. 2 60m ropes to descend.
|By Bryan Haslam|
Jan 1, 2012
First pitch seems more like 60-70 feet. The horizontal belay below the bulge required extra small gear (TCU's/ nuts) and a bit of finagling to equalize.... mostly because we had used up some key pieces on the lead. A deep eyebrow about 7 feet below the bulge would take 2 trucker 1.5-2" pieces. I'd consider belaying there for convenience. Second pitch has excellent holds and moves. From the top of pitch one, a 60m rope got us all the way to the Irish Jig rappel anchors. So 2 pitches in total.
|By Brian Abram|
From: Columbia, SC
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.10 R
I followed this route several years ago and remember that getting to the first pin is scary and hard. I fell following it BEFORE I got to the pin. I got an email about the route today and thought it might be worth putting up here. This isn't my comment, but the opinion of a partner. If the Selected guidebook didn't say "the only danger on this gem is having too much fun," I would not post it. That statement is a bullcrap, dangerous thing to be misinterpreted in a guidebook. As for the accuracy of some of it, I'll leave that to someone else to debate.
Quoted from email:
The Sunwall is a crazy unforgiving and contradictory place.
In my opinion, this is where the ethics of NC break down. Not on fixed gear above Safari Jive or rap anchors next to a splitter on Unfinished Concerto or the lack of rings on B52 or any other of the litany of petty nuisances and innocuous disregard for "established ethics". Or the small idiocies for adhering to them. This place is where turds hit the turbine.
It is pg13/R to the pin on Nick Danger. There is a perfect .4/.5 placement next to the pin but the slopers will flash pump you. The 6' traverse to the bolt is convoluted pumpy blind (absolutely cannot see your feet) and every bit of 10c slab.
Then there is ten feet between gear if you count flared eyebrow TCUs. Just build the anchor sit back in your harness and hang for an hour while your partner thrashes and your brain defragments itself.
All that is fine. Scary heady slab climbing. It's demoralizing, but that's to be expected.
The next pitch is a pumpy haul through a real roof and overhung bulges. Gear is awesome if burly to place. Great stuff, truly.
Finish the burl by clipping stacked pins. Say it with me "stacked pins!" You are now 25'-35' above your partner with good gear in between, semi-resting with the nest of pins (and no other gear). And you are relieved and even a little enthused about your efforts through two stout pitches.
Here is the denouement of this rant. Above the pins, it is 40 feet to gear.
The climbing is moderate but nothing positive. I honestly cruised it. Nimble, quick, searching for gear.
About 40' up I spotted an obvious #1 placement. I had to down climb and side step into the groove. Easily 5.8. After that it's adequately protected interesting grooving to the chains.
In summary the stacked pins are 35' above the slab where your belay is. The next gear is 40'. The belayer is blind and possibly deaf to the leader at this point. A fall would send you sliding, rolling, and eventually bouncing over the overhang and 10-20 feet below your belay. IF the 30 year old pins hold.
This climb is a hard man route.
The pins should be pulled and replaced with a bolt and it should be labeled an R
This route is begging tragedy.
If this is NC ethic that fosters mystique and adventure, SHOVE IT.
Read any description anywhere of this route. And come to any conclusion other than they are hiding the truth. I will argue myself blue that you are a liar that has swallowed all the other stupid lies.
Call routes what they are.
|By jeep gaskin|
Nov 5, 2012
i guess somebody love-hated the route. my daughter and i climbed it yesterday. i agree with one of the comments by the anonymous emailer: removing the stacked pins and installing a bolt is a good idea. next time i'm there i'll fix that.
as far as the run to the first pin is concerned, i consider it dangerous, enjoyable 5.9. the moves to the bolt are 5.9+ and if you placed the cam along side the pin, not dangerous. the rest of the face climbing to the crux bulge is well protected with deep 1" cam placements on moderate holds and a bomber 2" cam belay, or if you prefer just keep going through the bulge. if you do chose to climb through the bulge as 1 pitch carry 4 1" cams and doubles on .5- 2".
for what it's worth, i'd call the bulge 5.10b , and above the bulge, past the stacked pins 5.9. the run out section to the belay is only 20',the climbing 5.8.
it strikes me that the anonymous emailer is not skilled on 2 basic glass head tricks: 1) see the brows as you go by them and don't be shy about tick marking there location so you can find from above, and 2) stem out on grooves don't stay in them, then all you need is balance and calm in order to enjoy, rather than endure.
i'd call anyone ready for nick if they're comfortable on dinkus. just one old man's opinion.
From: western NC
Jan 28, 2013
A few comments on this route:
There is optional gear just below and right of the pin at the start of P-1. I missed it today, but now I know it is there. If you are uncomfortable with the climbing look for the gear (it's in the dark colored rock).
Jeep mentions replacing the double pins on P-2 with a bolt; For what it's worth, it looked as if the pod would take good (modern) clean gear here with the pins out. However finding it would likely be tricky since it faces away from the groove and might be hard to spot. Maybe something worth considering though.
|By jeep gaskin|
Mar 18, 2013
a couple more comments since we climbed this thing yet again on saturday. the best way to protect the moves by the first pin is to place a red tricam beside the pin and equalize them. that way there is finger room in the slot and the moves up and left are still well protected. the second note is that if you climb through the bulge before you belay you will still have used less than 1/2 your rope. this should be the standard method for climbing this route. finally, the second pitch to the anchors on irish jig is good sustained 5.8 climbing. shame on me for not fixing the pins at the top of pitch 1 but i still will.
we hung top ropes on this route and scottie pippen, ran laps and then finished to irish jig chains. it made for a great pumpy afternoon.