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 ADVANCED
The Prudential
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
El Funko S 
Finland S 
Hard Drive S 
Horned Behavior S 
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 
Machine Head S 
Measured Doses S 
Midget Tricks S 
Nice Land S 
Practice, The S 
Premium, The S 
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished)  T 
Short and sharp S 
Soft Job S 
Soft Machine S 
Stoned Temple Pilot S 
Swedish Girls S 
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 

Nice Land 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Esmond 4/01
Page Views: 1,060
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Description 

This is a nice, technical 5.10a with a variety of styles and moves that will test your route and sequence finding abilities as well as your physical skills.

Belay from the eyebolt on the left side of the ledge or suffer the wrath of the cliff behind you.

The start can be done a few ways but basically do a few steep moves to establish your self on the steep slab and get your feet working. The climbing continues like this for a while till you approach the top and you get back in to some interesting, steeper moves to the chains. The last moves will test you, so don't count your proverbial chickens, so to speak.

The best warm up at the crag for sure.

Location 

Starts from the ledge that splits the left side of The Prudential. Walk left on the ledge to the end, and follow the bolt line above you up the steep slab, the route that traverses right from the ledge is Swedish Girls (5.10d).

Protection 

9 bolts to quick clips.


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By twellman
Jul 27, 2009

A very fun and varied route. The crux is getting off the ground, or so I thought. There's also some fun and tricky moves in the corner near the top.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I thought this was a great route. I do think the start is a bit height dependent though. If you can't reach the good rail above the first bolt from the starting holds, then this route gets quite a bit harder than 10- in a hurry. I climbed it with a woman who is sub 5'4" and the moves she was doing were not the 10- moves I had the luxury of doing. Either way, this is a super nice route.
By S. Neoh
Apr 28, 2013

I recommend stick clipping 1st and 2nd bolt. The start felt harder than the crux on Finland to me. It is probably .11a or harder for anyone 5'5" or shorter.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 12, 2013

Great route. I enjoyed the various sections. I agree that the start is a little trickier for shorties - I could grab what I wanted from the ground easily. The crack midway up was fun and the top out was really cool. I'm surprised this wasn't called Finland.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Oct 14, 2014

The moves on this route are fine, but did anybody else find the bolt placements bizarre? Most of the bolts were placed a l-o-n-g stretch to the left rather than on the actual route itself. And the bolt at the overhang twelve feet below the final corner is a way-long reach. I'm not sure what "midsize" climbers (Hello S. Neoh!) do. Ed Esmond, the original ascensionist, must have arms like an N.B.A. shooting guard.
By S. Neoh
Oct 15, 2014

Nick, I was able to do some contortions (and stemming?) to make the moves near the top. The moves below the second bolt are/were darn hard for me. I do not know how to climb the first 12 feet or so at .10a.