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Arethusa Falls 
Bear Mountain 
Cannon Ice Climbs 
Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs 
Dixville Notch 
Flume, The 
Frankenstein Ice Climbs 
Garfield Crag 
Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch)  
Holts Ledge 
Ice and Mixed Bouldering 
Kinsman Notch 
Lower Baker Pond Ice Arena 
Mahoosuc Notch 
Mount Moosilauke 
Mount Washington 
Mt. Avalon 
Mt. Huntington 
Mt. Lafayette 
Mt. Lincoln 
Mt. Lowell 
Mt. Tom  
Mt. Webster 
Mt. Willard 
Mt. Willey 
Newfound Lake 
Oliverian Notch 
Painted Walls Ice Climbs 
Pawtuckaway 
Polar Caves (CLOSED) 
Rumney Ice Climbs 
Stonehouse Pond 
Tenny Mountain 
Trollville (Duckshead) 
Wilderness Woods  
Zealand Notch 

*NH Ice and Alpine Climbing 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Feb 1, 2008

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1st pitch of Repentance, March, 2005.

Description 

New Hampshire offers some of the best ice climbing in the lower-48. Maybe it's the fact that winters tend to be long and wet, or maybe it's the fact that summers tend to be short and humid and wet, but in winter, ice seems to form on every piece of exposed rock. Be it the road cuts on Interstate 93, the grungy summer sport climbs at Rumney, the moss-filled chimneys at Cathedral Ledge, or the shady reaches of Cannon Cliff, chances are each of these surfaces sports a worthwhile ice objective (except the road cut, which would be an illegal objective).

Most of the ice climbing activity in New Hampshire is focused around Frankenstein Cliff. Its easy access, proximity to North Conway, and numerous crag-style ice routes all assure that this ice destination will remain popular and crowded throughout the winter. Those looking for more of an adventure will certainly find it in the form of brutal cold and full-on conditions on Cannon Cliff, the premier alpine climbing setting in the Northeast. For the technical, demanding, multi-pitch and often mixed experience, look to the proud routes on Cathedral Ledge. Finally, for that quick ice-burn, check out Rumney for a bunch of shorter, often thin routes.

Mt. Washington, the highest point in New England and home of "the world's worst weather" offers both ice and alpine climbing in a serious, mountain setting. Despite it's modest height (by "out-west" standards), this mountain has brought about more than its share of tragedies.


Getting There 

Ice is everywhere in this state. View the individual pages for directions to your chosen destination.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing:
Great Gully   WI2 Mod. Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1300 feet, Grade III   Mount Washington : King Ravine (Mt. Adams)
Damnation Gully   WI3-     Ice, Alpine, 1000 feet, Grade III   Mount Washington : Huntington Ravine
Omega   WI5+     Ice, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade IV   Cannon Ice Climbs
Hobbit Couloir   WI4+     Ice, 200 feet   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Dropline   WI5     Ice   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Dropline Area
Gulley 1   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Mt. Willard
Geographic Factor   WI5     Ice   Rumney Ice Climbs : Hinterlands
Pegasus   WI3+     Ice, 200 feet   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Remission NEI 5+   WI5+ M5     Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II   Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs
Central Gully   WI1     Ice, Alpine, Grade II   Mount Washington : Huntington Ravine
Dracula   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Dropline Area
Pinnacle Gully   WI3     Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   Mount Washington : Huntington Ravine
Repentence   WI5     Ice, 3 pitches, 200 feet, Grade III   Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs
Shoestring Gully   WI2     Ice, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III   Mt. Webster
Chia   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Standard Route   WI3+     Ice, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Standard Route Area
The Penguin   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Standard Route Area
Hitchcock Gully   5.5 WI3-     Ice, 2 pitches   Mt. Willard
Black Dike   5.6 WI4-5 M3     Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade IV   Cannon Ice Climbs
Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III   Mount Washington : Huntington Ravine
Browse More Classics in *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing

Featured Route For *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing
Our approximate route up Great Gully, bypassing the ice bulge. Note the solo climber about 2/3 of the way up the route for scale.

Great Gully WI2 Mod. Snow  NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : ... : King Ravine (Mt. Adams)
Follow the long gully from the floor of the ravine to the top, generally along the summer Great Gully Trail. There may be some brush thrashing at the bottom of the route, depending on the snow depth. Mostly moderate snow down low, a large ice bulge may form about 1/3 of the way up. This bulge may be bypassed by climbing a snowfield to climber's left and rejoining the gully proper higher up. About halfway up the gully narrows and begins to steepen, before widening again. The top 1/3 or so is stee...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH


Photos of *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing Slideshow Add Photo
Mt. Washington

Mt. Washington

Rumney ice

Rumney ice

Great Madness on Mt. Willard, Crawford Notch

Great Madness on Mt. Willard, Crawford Notch

New Hampshire winters, we started when it was sunny.

New Hampshire winters, we started when it was sunn...

Ryan Barber on the traverse, pitch two of the Black Dike, Cannon cliff. Snow drought conditions.

Ryan Barber on the traverse, pitch two of the Blac...


Comments on *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing Add Comment
Show which comments
By reddirt
Mar 19, 2008

NH is a state where people actually drive the speed limit (and rarely over).

They've got a lot of good ice, and even more a$$hole cops... so watch your speed.

"Live free or die" my a$$!

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Mar 20, 2008

Also, "Live free or die, unless that involves drinking at a bar after midnight."

Funny how such an oppressive place can have such Libertarian motto...

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 24, 2009

Check out this cool video: www.dailymotion.com/video/x4rcaj_quebec-ice-trip-english_spo>>>

It shows climbs at Frankenstein, Willoughby, Cathedral Ledge, and Pont Rouge

By JohnnyG
Jan 9, 2012

What's up with all the hating on NH from the first two posters? This place is wicked awesome.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 9, 2012

I dunno- some pretty fine climbers have come outta here . You climb hard here and you'll be good anywhere.

By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jan 27, 2013

New Hampshire allows you to live free in as conservative a manner as you please.

By nick manning
From: superior,az
Jan 27, 2013

NH is rad, F the haters

RUMNEY

By bradley white
From: Rumney, N.H.
Feb 7, 2013

The chosen, Frozen