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*NH Ice and Alpine Climbing

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Arethusa Falls 
Bear Mountain 
Cannon Ice Climbs 
Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs 
Dixville Notch 
Flume, The 
Frankenstein Ice Climbs 
Garfield Crag 
Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch)  
Holts Ledge 
Ice and Mixed Bouldering 
Kinsman Notch 
Lower Baker Pond Ice Arena 
Mahoosuc Notch 
Mount Moosilauke 
Mount Washington 
Mt Major 
Mt. Avalon 
Mt. Huntington 
Mt. Lafayette 
Mt. Lincoln 
Mt. Lowell 
Mt. Tom  
Mt. Webster 
Mt. Willard 
Mt. Willey 
Newfound Lake 
Oliverian Notch 
Painted Walls Ice Climbs 
Pawtuckaway 
Polar Caves (CLOSED) 
Rumney Ice Climbs 
Stonehouse Pond 
Tenny Mountain 
Trollville (Duckshead) 
Wilderness Woods  
Zealand Notch 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Kingdom Trails: Darling Hill Loop
A nice introduction to the Kingdom Trails Darling Hill side in East Burke. Near West Burke village, VT
White School
A nice, scenic trail following the Passumpsic River towards town. Near West Burke village, VT
J-Bar
A fast, semi-technical downhill through the woods on Burke Mountain. Near Lyndonville village, VT
Kingdom Trails: Mountainside Loop
A great loop on the mountainside of the Kingdom Trails with fantastic downhills and big climbing. Near West Burke village, VT
Moose Alley
An awesome downhill that takes you from the mountain-side to the White School area of Kingdom Trails Near West Burke village, VT
Tent Boulder Trail
Awesome trail features make a great woods ride. Near Berlin, NH
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

*NH Ice and Alpine Climbing  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.271, -71.3055 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 722,369
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Feb 1, 2008
Forecast:
Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu
Chance of a Thunderstorm
52° | 43°
Chance of Rain
43° | 24°
Clear
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49° | 30°
Clear
53° | 35°
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Best routes for YOU in this area
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1st pitch of Repentance, March, 2005.

Description 

New Hampshire offers some of the best ice climbing in the lower-48. Maybe it's the fact that winters tend to be long and wet, or maybe it's the fact that summers tend to be short and humid and wet, but in winter, ice seems to form on every piece of exposed rock. Be it the road cuts on Interstate 93, the grungy summer sport climbs at Rumney, the moss-filled chimneys at Cathedral Ledge, or the shady reaches of Cannon Cliff, chances are each of these surfaces sports a worthwhile ice objective (except the road cut, which would be an illegal objective).

Most of the ice climbing activity in New Hampshire is focused around Frankenstein Cliff. Its easy access, proximity to North Conway, and numerous crag-style ice routes all assure that this ice destination will remain popular and crowded throughout the winter. Those looking for more of an adventure will certainly find it in the form of brutal cold and full-on conditions on Cannon Cliff, the premier alpine climbing setting in the Northeast. For the technical, demanding, multi-pitch and often mixed experience, look to the proud routes on Cathedral Ledge. Finally, for that quick ice-burn, check out Rumney for a bunch of shorter, often thin routes.

Mt. Washington, the highest point in New England and home of "the world's worst weather" offers both ice and alpine climbing in a serious, mountain setting. Despite it's modest height (by "out-west" standards), this mountain has brought about more than its share of tragedies.

Getting There 

Ice is everywhere in this state. View the individual pages for directions to your chosen destination.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.4 miles from here

237 Total Routes

['4 Stars',33],['3 Stars',109],['2 Stars',69],['1 Star',20],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing:
Pegasus Rock Finish   WI3 M3     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Gulley 1   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   Mt. Willard
Hobbit Couloir   WI4+     Ice, 200'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Dropline   WI5     Ice   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Dropline Area
The Penguin   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Standard Route Area
Geographic Factor   WI5     Ice   Rumney Ice Climbs : Hinterlands
Great Gully   WI2 Mod. Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1300'   Mount Washington : King Ravine (Mt. Adams)
Pegasus   WI3+     Ice, 200'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Remission NEI 5+   WI5+ M5     Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 350'   Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs
Damnation Gully   WI3-     Ice, Alpine, 1000'   Mount Washington : Huntington Ravine
Dracula   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Dropline Area
Pinnacle Gully   WI3     Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500'   Mount Washington : Huntington Ravine
Shoestring Gully   WI2     Ice, Alpine, 6 pitches   Mt. Webster
Standard Route   WI3+     Ice, 2 pitches, 300'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Standard Route Area
Repentance   WI5 M4-5     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 350'   Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs
Chia   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Hitchcock Gully   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-     Ice, 2 pitches   Mt. Willard
Black Dike   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI4-5 M3     Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400'   Cannon Ice Climbs
Greens Chasm   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 2500'   Mt. Webster
Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   Mount Washington : Huntington Ravine
Browse More Classics in *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing

Featured Route For *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing
Franky Lee in pretty average conditions....

Franky Lee WI4+  NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : ... : Parking Lot Wall
This is the obvious flow about 100 feet left of Centerfold...a very pretty, interesting, steep climb.... Unfortunately, it is often in kind of unstable or questionable condition.... Even when fat, it tends to be candled and pro can be tricky, but it's there if you look....It is pretty much a straight shot to the trees as you work over and around bulges and icicles....You will find fixed rap rings on a tree at the top....You can toprope it; however, consideration would be appreciated in...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing Slideshow Add Photo
Mt. Washington
Mt. Washington
New Hampshire winters, we started when it was sunny.
New Hampshire winters, we started when it was sunn...
Great Madness on Mt. Willard, Crawford Notch
Great Madness on Mt. Willard, Crawford Notch
Rumney ice
Rumney ice
Ryan Barber on the traverse, pitch two of the Black Dike, Cannon cliff. Snow drought conditions.
Ryan Barber on the traverse, pitch two of the Blac...

Comments on *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing Add Comment
Show which comments
By reddirt
Mar 19, 2008
NH is a state where people actually drive the speed limit (and rarely over).

They've got a lot of good ice, and even more a$$hole cops... so watch your speed.

"Live free or die" my a$$!
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Mar 20, 2008
Also, "Live free or die, unless that involves drinking at a bar after midnight."

Funny how such an oppressive place can have such Libertarian motto...
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Oct 24, 2009
Check out this cool video: dailymotion.com/video/x4rcaj_q...

It shows climbs at Frankenstein, Willoughby, Cathedral Ledge, and Pont Rouge
By JohnnyG
Jan 9, 2012
What's up with all the hating on NH from the first two posters? This place is wicked awesome.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 9, 2012
I dunno- some pretty fine climbers have come outta here . You climb hard here and you'll be good anywhere.
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jan 27, 2013
New Hampshire allows you to live free in as conservative a manner as you please.
By nick manning
From: superior,az
Jan 27, 2013
NH is rad, F the haters

RUMNEY
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Feb 7, 2013
The chosen, Frozen