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NH climber looking to climb in RI or CT Saturday
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By omcmahon
From Nashua, NH
Dec 26, 2013
me

I was down in CT for Christmas and saw there was no snow. I'm thinking of heading down that way Saturday to escape the snow and ice in NH and climb outside. Which is likely to be better Chatfield Hollow or Mt Tom in Exeter, RI?


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By WiseOldMoon
From West Hartford, Connecticut
Dec 26, 2013
Barn Door Crack

Chattfield is great but I would recommend east peak. Laps on dol guldur will get you strong!! And cat crack is an awesome crack climb that is pretty sustained as well.


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By omcmahon
From Nashua, NH
Dec 26, 2013
me

Thanks, WOM. I hadn't thought about that area but it looks really good, and it's not much farther away.


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By WiseOldMoon
From West Hartford, Connecticut
Dec 26, 2013
Barn Door Crack

No problem and also check out lightning bolt crack (might be called thunderbolt crack) im too lazy to check but its a 5.10+ crack climb that starts on Thor's hammer then traverses right, onto the right diagonal thin hand and finger crack. Idk if it is listed on MP but its one to check out!


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Dec 27, 2013
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

I wouldn't drive all the way down for Mt. Tom. It is just a pretty crappy little top rope cliff, only for something locals would play on if desperate. Chatfield and East Peak are much better destinations. Lincoln Woods is of course good for bouldering in RI. There is some quality bouldering in mid and southern RI, but it is fairly scattered so not really worth a long drive unless you are pretty dedicated and you have already been to the bigger areas. If headed to CT, bring plenty of anchoring materials for TRing (a bunch of static rope or webbing)


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By omcmahon
From Nashua, NH
Dec 27, 2013
me

Thanks, M Spraue. We'll head to East Peak tomorrow and try Chatfield another time.


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By The Phoenix
Dec 27, 2013
The Phoenix

2nd East Peak, or Main Cliff in PM


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By wivanoff
Dec 27, 2013
High Exposure

omcmahon wrote:
Thanks, M Spraue. We'll head to East Peak tomorrow and try Chatfield another time.


If the gate is open, pay close attention to the closing time so you don't get locked in. You might be better off parking outside the gate and hiking in if you plan on staying late.


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Dec 27, 2013
modern man

of course a dozen other folks may have the same idea to go an TR the same routes at East Peak so beware. tons of stuff to climb if you can locate it from the top of the cliff, there really is no trail at the base.

Thors Hammer is an easy one to find from the top and mega classic

and like Wivanoff said, park outside the gate or be prepared to book it out of there way early or get a ticket like my neighbor did already this season!


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By omcmahon
From Nashua, NH
Dec 27, 2013
me

Thor's Hammer looks great. My climbing partner says would rather go to Chatfield Hollow tomorrow. Is the main wall hard to find. I couldn't pick it out on google maps satelite view.


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By The Phoenix
Dec 27, 2013
The Phoenix

omcmahon wrote:
Thor's Hammer looks great. My climbing partner says would rather go to Chatfield Hollow tomorrow. Is the main wall hard to find. I couldn't pick it out on google maps satelite view.


Chatfield is in a hollow and will be cold w/ little sun... but good for short hard routes. East Peak and others are in the sun and dark colored rock will make it feel like 50/60 deg. Chatfield will feel like 20s. The outside edge of Thors Hammer is a .13 TR called lightening strike. So theres no shortage of hard routes at East.


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By omcmahon
From Nashua, NH
Dec 27, 2013
me

East Peak sounds better for this time of yearb but my friend and I only mostly TR in the 5.7 - 5.10 range and lead up to 5.7. Will East Peak be too advanced?


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By The Phoenix
Dec 27, 2013
The Phoenix

omcmahon wrote:
East Peak sounds better for this time of yearb but my friend and I only mostly TR in the 5.7 - 5.10 range and lead up to 5.7. Will East Peak be too advanced?


Nah - you should be fine. Main Cliff on Ragged Mountain too is awesome in that range. Tough to beat actually.


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Dec 27, 2013
modern man

the nine wall at chatfield would be perfect for that, sunny, good TR anchors


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By omcmahon
From Nashua, NH
Dec 28, 2013
me

MJMobes thanks for the tip on the 9 Wall.


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By omcmahon
From Nashua, NH
Dec 28, 2013
me

We had a great day at Chatfield Hollow Main Wall. The weather was great, no snow, just a little ice, temps in the 40s. It felt like Spring to us. We had the crag to ourselves except for the occasional hikers. It was worth the long drive.


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