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Jul 8, 2013
so i have a very simple rack so far (bd c4 .5-3, 4 trad draws, rope,5 quick draws,bd nuts 4-13,8mm 27 foot cordelette,some staic line too.) and was wondering what should the next few purchases of gear be or my rack? (ie cams and the size or quick draws or what) skierhs
Joined May 29, 2013
2 points
Jul 8, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
Go climb some stuff that's well within your limits and you'll find out what you're missing. Probably small stuff (down to #1 metolius / .3 BD), and doubles in fingers size gear, but it really depends on what/where you climb. Larry S
Joined May 28, 2010
918 points
Jul 8, 2013
see that's why im stuck right now, im going to be going to school out in Denver so im kinda lost on what to do skierhs
Joined May 29, 2013
2 points
Jul 8, 2013
Upper pitches on Crescent Tower, Bugaboos.
I agree with Larry, you should grab some small cams from C3 00 up to c4 .4 (not necessarily BD brand but comparable sizes). Also, for smaller stoppers consider a set DMM offset brass, I use them all the time free climbing and have never felt so great about really small nut placement as I do with those ( I have doubles of green and silver). Jonathan Dull
From Boone, NC
Joined Mar 2, 2012
423 points
Jul 8, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
Well, if you're just itchin to buy something, Blue-Orange metolius would, IMO, round it out a bit. Or maybe the .2, .3, .4 BD X4's or blue-yellow Aliens. I don't think you'd regret having any of those. Larry S
Joined May 28, 2010
918 points
Jul 8, 2013
If you actually mean quick-draws (vs. trad-draws). Then I would make yourself some trad draws 4-5 of them. If you want to do interesting trad routes you need to be able to extend your draws.

As for protection, it depends on where you climb. I found that I wanted smaller protection in Eldorado Canyon, beyond what you have (C3s at the time, maybe you can get X4s or aliens, and some small offset nuts.

So, draws and small cams probably.
Forrest L.
Joined Nov 12, 2011
20 points
Jul 8, 2013
I agree on the smaller cams (technically called "TCUs" for "three cam units"). These things are made to fit into small cracks and particularly piton scars, which you'll find everywhere in places with a long history of climbing. I live in the Front Range and find that I use my C3s quite a lot, especially in the Flatirons which have some epic beginner multipitch trad.

Also, 9 draws (QDs plus alpine draws) is a bit low for pretty much any style of climbing. I would recommend having at least 12 at your disposal, probably more like 14. What you should add really depends on where you're going with your climbing. QDs are great for sport climbing where the bolt lines are generally pretty straight. Trad protection is generally all over the place, thus calling for longer extension in the form of alpine draws and even some double-length slings. QDs also transmit more rope movement to the pro, which can result in trad placements walking out. I'm still dialing everything in, but lately for trad I've been carrying 8 single slings with a biner (that I use either fully extended or shortened to an alpine draw), 2 double slings (for placing pro way off route or under a ledge), and 2 QDs (for bomber placements directly on-route). This seems to work pretty well.

I agree that offset nuts can be very useful, too, depending on the area. I recommend against buying chock/nut sets, though. Instead, buy a handful of different pieces (regular nuts, offset nuts, hexes, tricams, etc.) in a handful of sizes and then, as Larry recommended, pay attention to what works and what you think you're missing as you climb.

Lastly, make sure you get some instruction on placing gear. The best way to do this is climb with someone way more experienced, look at their placements, and have them evaluate yours.

Good luck!
wfscot
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 19, 2013
40 points
Jul 8, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
I agree about possibly wanting more slings / trad draws too, but that can really depend on where/what you climb. If you're local crag is short or the routes don't wander, you might be set. I carry 9x shoulder length (24") slings, and 3x 36" slings, and I frequently use them all up. I leave the quickdraws for sport climbing. Larry S
Joined May 28, 2010
918 points
Jul 8, 2013
~Here to party~
You're wondering...
You're lost...
You're going to be going to school in Denver...

Save your money.
Go to school.
Make friends (make friends with seasoned climbers.)
Follow them.
Clean their gear.
Wait to discover first hand what is truly needed & missing from your rack.
Use saved money to buy beer for partners willing to let you lead on your combined racks.

In my most sincere, loving, truly caring tone: don't buy anything now; figure it out later when you won't waste your money.
Sorden
From inside the Bubble, Colorado
Joined Sep 25, 2003
99 points
Jul 8, 2013
I see you don't have Tricams. They are light and cheaper than cams. Place them when you are at a good stance and save the cams for quick placements. The pink, red, brown and blue sizes are good ones to add to your rack. Gunks
From Gunks, NY
Joined Apr 12, 2007
57 points
Jul 8, 2013
Gunks wrote:
I see you don't have Tricams. They are light and cheaper than cams. Place them when you are at a good stance and save the cams for quick placements. The pink, red, brown and blue sizes are good ones to add to your rack.



This but also buy the black (one size smaller then the pink)
ian watson
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Apr 27, 2010
275 points
Jul 8, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
Yo, I am gonna agree with the, "wait until you're in Denver" argument.

You won't know what/where you'll be climbing most until you're out here, in school, in the swing of your routine, and have visited a few of the areas. After you are here a few weeks or so, it'll start to be obvious what you want to do, and what you'll need to do it.

Hit me up if you need a partner once you're out here.

Welcome!
Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
357 points
Jul 8, 2013
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
there is plenty you can do with the rack you have. many of the pitches in the Front Range are short. most of the popular routes take nuts well. Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,733 points
Jul 8, 2013
...
Since "Yer GONNA die!!!", why not go for a coffin? Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,361 points
Jul 8, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
Darren Mabe wrote:
there is plenty you can do with the rack you have. many of the pitches in the Front Range are short. most of the popular routes take nuts well.


Agreed. Many of the cracks out here are shaped in ways that suck up passive gear like crazy. Unless your plan is to drive out to the creek every other weekend to jump on splitters, I'd save my money for the important stuff like books for school, gas to get into the mountains, and good beer for the post climb celebrations.
Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
357 points
Jul 8, 2013
Middle
skierhs wrote:
so i have a very simple rack so far (bd c4 .5-3, 4 trad draws, rope,5 quick draws,bd nuts 4-13,8mm 27 foot cordelette,some staic line too.) and was wondering what should the next few purchases of gear be or my rack? (ie cams and the size or quick draws or what)


Spend your time and money getting laid.
Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
130 points
Jul 8, 2013
 Morning Dew ,self portrait
Gunks wrote:
I see you don't have Tricams. They are light and cheaper than cams. Place them when you are at a good stance and save the cams for quick placements. The pink, red, brown and blue sizes are good ones to add to your rack.


Yep!
s.price
From PS,CO
Joined Dec 1, 2010
1,363 points
Jul 9, 2013
Pro: DMM Offset nuts, hardly reach for my BD's anymore. They aren't only useful for pin scars, but any highly featured cracks/ rock.

More trad draws, you can never have enough.

Have an ATC Guide? If you had to just have ONE belay device that'd be it. Yeah the Reverso is lighter but it wears stupid fast and it's one piece of gear, not multiples like carabiners.
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Jul 9, 2013
thanks most of you for the advice and keep it going, i do have multiple atc's skierhs
Joined May 29, 2013
2 points
Jul 9, 2013
Ray Pinpillage wrote:
Spend your time and money getting laid.


Bwahahaha!

Or, besides getting laid or having fun, consider spending some of your time and money helping others.

The title of this thread is so awful. How about you don't buy anything and see what happens? Maybe just make some new friends. Maybe you will be given something.
Dankasaurus
From Lyons, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2012
29 points
Jul 9, 2013
skierhs wrote:
i do have multiple atc's


Whew, thank the stars that you have 2 ATCs! And yet no rack.

Maybe you should spend some money on a book about grammar?

Just kidding, here is your free grammar lesson:

grammarbook.com/punctuation/ap...
Dankasaurus
From Lyons, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2012
29 points
Jul 9, 2013
Locker wrote:
Since "Yer GONNA die!!!", why not go for a coffin?


That's Funny!
Greg Berry
Joined Aug 8, 2010
9 points


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