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By Jake Charland
From Boulder, CO
Aug 3, 2011
I currently have a set of BD c4's from .5 to 2 with a double on .75 1 and 2 i also have a set of BD stoppers from 4-13 i was wondering what to buy next i will primarily be climbing in the boulder area.
Jake

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By rickpat
From Boulder, Co
Aug 4, 2011
Edge of Time
I am no expert, but from my experience in and around Boulder pick up some smaller pieces. Like #1-3 in Mastercams or TCU's and eventually you will want a #3 and #4 C4, but the #4 should be the last thing on your list. Also when you climb what do you wish you had to place. Bigger? Smaller?

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By Abram Herman
From Golden, CO
Aug 4, 2011
Viking helmet cover, yep.
I'd say a #0.3, #0.4, & #3 C4 would be the most immediate need, that'd set you up with (in my opinion) a pretty complete beginner's rack.
After that I'd recommend a yellow, red, & green C3. If you're buying one at a time you might want to get the red & green first, the yellow C3 is almost the same size as the 0.3 C4 so you could buy it after the red, green & purple if you're slowly building your rack.

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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 4, 2011
OTL
The #2 & #3 mastercams are awesome pieces and useful sizes - I'll second that recommendation [having never climbed outside CA, though]

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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Aug 4, 2011
Finger sized to small gear and shoulder length runners
And a #3 had straight up saved my life 2 times

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By andrewc
Aug 4, 2011
Jake Charland wrote:
I currently have a set of BD c4's from .5 to 2 with a double on .75 1 and 2 i also have a set of BD stoppers from 4-13 i was wondering what to buy next i will primarily be climbing in the boulder area. Jake


A rope.

Seriously, what to buy next? If you don't know what sizes you're missing then you should climb more until you do. Your current rack is bigger than what first ascencionists used on just about every moderate route.

Or just buy a double set of cams from metolius 0 to BD C4 #4 like everyone else.

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By Greg D
From Here
Aug 4, 2011
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Jake Charland wrote:
I currently have a set of BD c4's from .5 to 2 with a double on .75 1 and 2 i also have a set of BD stoppers from 4-13 i was wondering what to buy next i will primarily be climbing in the boulder area. Jake


You don't need more gear. You need to climb... as much as possible... routes you feel comfortable on... and some not so comfortable on... and climb some more... gear is not the answer.

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By Micahisaac
From Longmont, CO
Aug 4, 2011
soloing Boulder Canyon Upper Falls
Plane tickets

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By thecornyman
From Oakland, CA
Aug 4, 2011
mike
TCU's. backcountry.com/metolius-ultra...

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By Russell Bangert
Aug 16, 2011
You will probably enjoy the addition of a set of tri-cams, hexes, and some offset nuts more than a few cams at this point. Everyone saying to get more cams makes me frown when you have such a lacking rack aside from the cams.

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By andrewc
Aug 17, 2011
Russell Bangert wrote:
You will probably enjoy the addition of a set of tri-cams, hexes, and some offset nuts more than a few cams at this point. Everyone saying to get more cams makes me frown when you have such a lacking rack aside from the cams.


Yes you are clearly lacking any Big Bros, Tricams, Ball Nutz, RURPS, bongs, hexcentrics (a mix on wire and rope), tiny brass offset nuts, a selection of cam hooks, and not even one Kong Gypsy.

I'm not sure how anyone could climb on just nuts and cams.

Also this is sarcasm.

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By Russell Bangert
Aug 17, 2011
I'm not sure why anyone would want to climb on just nuts and cams, especially someone who has immediate access to alpine routes with approaches that no one would want to lug 50 cams up. It's so nice to have stuff that's lighter, move versatile, and cheaper in case you have to use it to bail. Hexes are great, most places that a cam will go, a hex will and my number 9 hex, is 4.7 ounces and has more range than a number 4 C4, that's just shy of 10 ounces. That's just one of the many reasons someone shouldn't want just cams and nuts.

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By LanceSullins
From Chevy Express, CO
Aug 17, 2011
Red Rocks
Micah Isaac wrote:
Plane tickets


+1

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By slim
Administrator
Aug 17, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
as someone who climbed for probably almost 10 years with no cams, i would say get cams instead. my hexes have collected dust in my closet for the last 15 years. i did take them out one time, and by the end of the 2nd pitch i was like "fvck this". the only reason i would probably ever take them out in the future would be if i was climbing something in the middle of nowhere and wanted to bring some cheap bail gear.

plus, when you are looking for partners, nobody is going to want to climb with somebody who feels the need to bring their cowbells.

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By Scott O
From California
Aug 20, 2011
Batman Pinnacle
I found great tricam placements at the Flatirons when I visited a couple weeks ago. Good way to double up without having to buy more cams.

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By mountainhick
From Black Hawk, CO
Aug 20, 2011
I like being well protected on lead. Based on what I seem to place around the Boulder area, Double up on your C4 size 0.5, and add master cams or tcus from there down to size 0. Yellow, blue purple (eventually doubles in these sizes)

Then think about adding a #3 camalot or two, double up on mid size stoppers around sz 4-8 and add a set of RPs or possibly small offset nuts.

With this compliment I reckon you can sew up 90% or more of the routes around Boulder.

And, I agree with Slim. I climbed with just passive pro for many years. Still love bomber nut placements, but cams rule. I jettisoned my hexes a long while ago.

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