This is the western sub peak of the Newman peak radio antenna site. This oft viewed but seldom inspected wall has new route potential for the brave of heart. The western arete has limited climbing potential, but the main north face is 700 feet. Steep granitic gneiss is similar to a mix of lower Catalina rock (reddish-orange) with spots of bleached granite. The rock is very steep in sections with hard route potential. Be warned the gullies and ledges can be heavily vegetated and have loose rocks. Rockfall is a hazard in this areas until the wall gets cleaned properly.
60 miles south of the Phoenix Basin and 40 miles north of Tucson proper is exit 219 on I-10, the Picacho Peak exit. Access the east frontage road and drive north 2.4 miles to cattle gate and RR crossing on right. Through the gate 0.7 miles is a deep ditch that is currently (3/08) passable by high clearance vehicles. Follow this road ENE to a power line (0.7 miles) then follow poles 1.7 miles north to turn off to right (poorer road). You will not follow the main road the entire time- stick to the poles. 1/10th of a mile to the CAP canal and parking. Cross canal at game bridge 150' south of parking area. From the bridge, trend north to gain access to an old road. Hike this to the mine, then trend up moraine to a pair of power pole (one newer, one no in service). Hike up to main wall via the ridge right of the rocky outcrop. Allow 1 1/2 hours for the steep approach. The West Arete is best accessed from a south game bridge, but the climbing is poor.
pitch 1 is a chimney groove to a decent gear belay, 5.8, 70'. pitch 2 is incomplete. Climb up groove passing some loose blocks until possible to step left onto face. Leader must bring a bolt kit here. Unsteady pins forced the leader (me) to down-climb to the belay....[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
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