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Newhalem

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Business Before Pleasure 
Callisto 
Cinnamon Groove 
Cold Beer in the River 
Hurt Locker, The 
Kate Moss 
Lockjaw 
Luna Park 
Meridian 
Paradigm Shift 
Paradim Drift 
Serendipity 
Van Halem 
Unsorted Routes:

Newhalem 


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Page Views: 4,921
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ryan Triplett on Mar 4, 2008
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Clearing storm, Newhalem

Description 

Newhalem remains a little known gem within the abundance of Washington crags. Still in it's infancy, the surrounding area holds huge potential for further development. The rock is a gneiss (metamorphosed granitic rock) that is both solid and beautiful, offering quality aesthetic lines of 5.9 through 5.13 in difficulty.


Getting There 

The town of Newhalem is located on Highway 20, just west of the Diablo dam. Crags are distributed through the surrounding area of the town proper.


13 Total Routes


['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',3],['5.12',5],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Newhalem:
Cold Beer in the River   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 3 pitches   
Kate Moss   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 80'   
Luna Park   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Serendipity   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Cinnamon Groove   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Browse More Classics in Newhalem

Featured Route For Newhalem
At the Serendipity anchors.

Serendipity 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a  WA : Northwest Region : Newhalem
The first line that Andrew and I bolted at Ryan's Wall, established in 2001 as I recall.Start immediately to the right of Zloi. Follow a right-facing corner system with interesting moves to the anchors of Zloi and continue upwards to a ledge. Leave the ledge with difficulty and continue up the overhanging face with long, cool pulls between good holds. Varied and fun!...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Comments on Newhalem Add Comment
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By blakeherrington
Sep 23, 2008

To Reach the wall:

Park on the South side of Hwy20, at the East end of "town".
Walk along hwy 20 for ~150yrds to a trail on the left, which leads to the wall in about 30 seconds.

By jonah
Sep 27, 2008

Thanks to the years of effort of the Access Fund, the Washington Climbers Coalition and the great National Park Service staff, Newhalem is once again open for new routes!!
The above parties in conjunction with the Vertical World climbing team, the Wilderness Society and the Washington Trails Association just built a new trail to a new mega cliff just down the road. Walk down and check it out and bring your new-routing mojo! There is a decade's worth of potential in this gorge and years of new routes on the new cliff alone!

Also, the late, great badass and all-around great friend Ryan Triplett put up a bunch of new-school hard classics at the main Newhalem cliff ("Newhalem West"). Check 'em out! I'll try to post route info...

By jonah
Sep 27, 2008

FYI there is an online guide (incomplete but a good place to start) here:
www.misha.org/Climbing/Newhalem/index.html

By Ryan Huetter
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Nov 26, 2008

Wow. What a cool interactive topo idea.

By Marty Bland
Jun 15, 2010

What is the season here? Looks like it seeps in spring? Which way do the cliffs face and when does the sun hit them?

By Drewsky
Jul 4, 2010

Someone else might know better, but I believe Ryan's Wall is south or southeast facing while the other larger wall is south to southwest facing. I think one could potentially climb here year round in the right conditions. Ryan's Wall seems to both dry quickly after and stay dry during most rainstorms. Most of it is in the shade in early afternoon as well.

By Isa Lulu
From: VA, NC, TN
May 29, 2013

Hey! Anyone have info on the bouldering here? I can't find any details on how to get to the boulders.