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12c for a day S 
Breaking the Law S 
Business Before Pleasure S 
Callisto S 
Cinnamon Groove S 
Cold Beer in the River S 
Domestic Bliss S 
Gainfully Unemployed S 
Hull Yeah S 
Hurt Locker, The S 
Kate Moss S 
Lockjaw S 
Luna Park S 
Meridian S 
Paradigm Shift S 
Paradim Drift S 
Serendipity S 
Shoe Phone S 
Van Halem S 


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Location: 48.67783, -121.24376 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ryan Triplett on Mar 4, 2008  with updates from Eric Hirst and 1 more
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Newhalem remains a little known gem within the abundance of Washington crags. Still in it's infancy, the surrounding area holds huge potential for further development. The rock is a gneiss (metamorphosed granitic rock) that is both solid and beautiful, offering quality aesthetic lines of 5.9 through 5.13 in difficulty.

Getting There 

The town of Newhalem is located on Highway 20, just west of the Diablo dam. Crags are distributed through the surrounding area of the town proper.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.5 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Newhalem:
Cold Beer in the River   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 3 pitches   
Domestic Bliss   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Luna Park   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Kate Moss   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   
Serendipity   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hull Yeah   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 35'   
Business Before Pleasure   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Shoe Phone   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
12c for a day   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Cinnamon Groove   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Browse More Classics in Newhalem

Featured Route For Newhalem
Looking up from the base of serendipity/Hull Yeah

Hull Yeah 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  WA : Northwest Region : Newhalem
Great extension to Serendipity...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Comments on Newhalem Add Comment
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By blakeherrington
Sep 23, 2008
To Reach the wall:

Park on the South side of Hwy20, at the East end of "town".
Walk along hwy 20 for ~150yrds to a trail on the left, which leads to the wall in about 30 seconds.
By jonah
Sep 27, 2008
Thanks to the years of effort of the Access Fund, the Washington Climbers Coalition and the great National Park Service staff, Newhalem is once again open for new routes!!
The above parties in conjunction with the Vertical World climbing team, the Wilderness Society and the Washington Trails Association just built a new trail to a new mega cliff just down the road. Walk down and check it out and bring your new-routing mojo! There is a decade's worth of potential in this gorge and years of new routes on the new cliff alone!

Also, the late, great badass and all-around great friend Ryan Triplett put up a bunch of new-school hard classics at the main Newhalem cliff ("Newhalem West"). Check 'em out! I'll try to post route info...
By jonah
Sep 27, 2008
FYI there is an online guide (incomplete but a good place to start) here:
By Ryan Huetter
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Nov 26, 2008
Wow. What a cool interactive topo idea.
By Marty Bland
Jun 15, 2010
What is the season here? Looks like it seeps in spring? Which way do the cliffs face and when does the sun hit them?
By Drewsky
Jul 4, 2010
Someone else might know better, but I believe Ryan's Wall is south or southeast facing while the other larger wall is south to southwest facing. I think one could potentially climb here year round in the right conditions. Ryan's Wall seems to both dry quickly after and stay dry during most rainstorms. Most of it is in the shade in early afternoon as well.
By Isa Lulu
From: VA, NC, TN
May 29, 2013
Hey! Anyone have info on the bouldering here? I can't find any details on how to get to the boulders.
By pawilkes
Jul 24, 2014
Good topi here: rcnw.net/forums/index.php?app=...
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Aug 21, 2014
higher resolution
higher resolution
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