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> Lower Town Wall
> (Cb) The Shield
Newest Industry
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 21 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Greg Olsen, Max Dufford, Darryl Cramer |
Page Views: | 2,352 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Drewsky on Dec 28, 2008 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Warning for the Great Northern Slab and Sonic Slab areas on the west (left) end
Details
In late Nov 2023, there was a significant rockfall encompassing the GNS, Sonic Slab, and Roger's Corner areas. There is still a ton of rock on the upper section that will very likely come down in the near future. This rock includes small and very large boulders. Please respect closures and avoid this region for the foreseeable future. For more information or updates please refer to the Climb Index! facebook page.
Description
A really enjoyable slab climb located on The Shield, which is essentially the large slab on the upper left portion of the Lower Wall. Well-bolted slab climbing grows in difficulty until a distinct, thin crux section. After the crux, there is a much easier runout either right to an anchor on TPMV below its 10d mantle pitch or to a higher anchor via a dike and easy roof. Natural gear protects the dike and the moves over the roof. The crux of the route is infamous for being rather thin for the grade, especially during the warm season. Descend from the anchor above the roof or better yet continue to the anchor at the top of the TPMV/Japanese Gardens routes via 5.7-5.8 slab climbing for a full size pitch.
Location
The best approach is probably via Princely Ambitions (.9) and Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters (.10+). From the anchor at the top of the latter climb, scramble up and right across a grassy ledge to an anchor below the slab. Beware of loose debris on the ledge: anything that falls could easily land on someone below! One 70m rope will get you down the wall, with a variety of anchor choices available.
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