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Newcastle Crag

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Boila, The 
Broon, The 
Brown Ale 
Full Sail 
Guinness 
Mission Accomplished 
One and Only, The 
Pale Ale 
Warrantless Wiretap 

Newcastle Crag 


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Location: 36.15122, -115.43254 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,465
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: SexPanther aka Kiedis on Mar 2, 2007
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Shows "The Boila" on left and "The Broon" on the r...

Description 

This wall is located almost exactly halfway between the first and second pullouts, and can be approached from either in about 15 minutes. The wall is located at the very bottom of the wash directly below the Ultraman Wall.

Variety of routes from moderate top-ropes to short 10+-11+ sport routes. Shady-- a nice spot to hide from the sun. Rock is chossy at the start and cleans up nicely the higher you go.


Getting There 

Approach as for Ultraman wall. When you are standing in the wash looking up at Ultraman, the cliff is right behind you-climbs start directly from the wash.


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Newcastle Crag:
The Boila   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
The One and Only   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     TR, 40'   
Full Sail   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 45'   
Guinness   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Newcastle Crag

Featured Route For Newcastle Crag
Sheri roping up at the base of Warrantless Wiretap

Warrantless Wiretap 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c  NV : Red Rock : ... : Newcastle Crag
This route is located at the extreme right (north) end of the wall. Follow a large curving flake past a bolt, over a bulge - crux -, past three more bolts to bolted anchors. This route shares anchors with Mission Accomplished....[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

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By Owen Carver
Nov 20, 2009

There are about 5 (5.8-5.9) routes on the left side of New Castle Crag about 30 feet to the left of the 5.10/11 routes. The easier wall may also be known as "Mark and Jake's Area". All routes are listed in the new Black Book.

Another way to think about getting there:
On the trail to Ultraman, once you descend into the wash, continue walking straight West-Northwest, instead of walking North towards the Ultraman wall. Look for the 4' wide 30' high passage between two massive rocks, the left side of the passage is the start of New Castle Crag.

TR Anchors:
Walk around to the SE end of the formation and just scramble/walk up it to the anchors.

By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 4, 2010

This crag has cleaned up quite nicely. The wall with the 10's and 11's was a hidden gem.

By smassey
From: CO
Jan 15, 2010

The missing TR anchor has been replaced as of 1/14.