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Newcastle Crag

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Boila, The TR 
Broon, The TR 
Brown Ale S 
Full Sail S 
Guinness S 
Mission Accomplished TR 
One and Only, The TR 
Pale Ale S 
Warrantless Wiretap S 

Newcastle Crag  

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Location: 36.15122, -115.43254 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,395
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Stone Nude on Mar 2, 2007
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Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>


This wall is located almost exactly halfway between the first and second pullouts, and can be approached from either in about 15 minutes. The wall is located at the very bottom of the wash directly below the Ultraman Wall.

Variety of routes from moderate top-ropes to short 10+-11+ sport routes. Shady-- a nice spot to hide from the sun. Rock is chossy at the start and cleans up nicely the higher you go.

Getting There 

Approach as for Ultraman wall. When you are standing in the wash looking up at Ultraman, the cliff is right behind you-climbs start directly from the wash.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.8 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Newcastle Crag:
The One and Only   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 40'   
The Boila   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Full Sail   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 45'   
Guinness   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Newcastle Crag

Featured Route For Newcastle Crag
Moving to the overhanging rock edges on 'The Boila...

The Boila 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  NV : Red Rock : ... : Newcastle Crag
Technical smears and under-clings pull up to a slight over hanging layer of rock, pass the featured flakes to a horizontal crack and pull the last few holds to the anchor. Rated the same as 'The Broon' in the black book, however, when these pics were taken, all 6 people in my group finished 'The Broon', but only two of us were able to complete this climb....[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of Newcastle Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Shows "The Boila" on left and "The ...
Shows "The Boila" on left and "The ...
Shows most of Newcastle crag..
Shows most of Newcastle crag..

Comments on Newcastle Crag Add Comment
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By Owen Carver
Nov 20, 2009
There are about 5 (5.8-5.9) routes on the left side of New Castle Crag about 30 feet to the left of the 5.10/11 routes. The easier wall may also be known as "Mark and Jake's Area". All routes are listed in the new Black Book.

Another way to think about getting there:
On the trail to Ultraman, once you descend into the wash, continue walking straight West-Northwest, instead of walking North towards the Ultraman wall. Look for the 4' wide 30' high passage between two massive rocks, the left side of the passage is the start of New Castle Crag.

TR Anchors:
Walk around to the SE end of the formation and just scramble/walk up it to the anchors.
By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 4, 2010
This crag has cleaned up quite nicely. The wall with the 10's and 11's was a hidden gem.
By smassey
From: CO
Jan 15, 2010
The missing TR anchor has been replaced as of 1/14.
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