Climb past the small overhang that is just left of a short, right-facing corner. Move up 20-25 feet or so to a sentry box. Go straight over the overhang at the top of this, then straight up to an indistinct groove with some small, right-facing flakes. Climb up the groove (crux) then traverse right to a good ledge and a threaded rappel station. This can be well protected if you look around carefully. The crux section is not sustained. Decent climbing, not a hard 5.9.
Location
The start is 10 feet right of Ursula. The trail to the base is about a five minute walk past the High E buttress.
Protection
Standard 'Gunks rack, include some very small cams
Dana, can you please describe how or where this crosses Ursula? Does it stay between Ursula and Groovy and end at the shared anchor, or does it cross Ursula and end at that new-ish fixed sling anchor right of Bonnie's crux?
I have the same question. What route, if any, are the pins and slings under the roof on? If they are on a route where do you go from there? I have traversed over 4 feet to the break in the roof and stepped up. Didn't look terribly promising and I backed off.
Losbill, is it possible that you're asking about Groovy--the roof with pins and slings under it--just to the right of Nose Drops? I think there's a pin on Nose Drops, but I don't think that there are any slings attached to it. I too would love to see a picture with a line drawn in for Nose Drops. I've read the Grey Guide description about a half a dozen times and am less than sure of the line. What the hell is a "sentry box" anyway?
Hey, I didn't mean to complain about Dana's wording. Dick Williams uses the term "sentry box" as well. Standing at the base of the route, I thought that there could be a few different spots he was talking about, but you're right from that Ursula picture standing well to the left the sentry box seems more obvious.
Ivan --- That is the anchor I am wondering about. You can see a bit of a red sling and biner hanging out of the shadow of the roof directly above Rich's head in the photo. From it I moved right to the obvious break and pulled up to take a look over the overhang. Didn't appear too promising and I backed off.
The route starts perhaps 5 feet right of Ursula. It climbs between Ursula and Groovy and it doesn't go up to the fixed anchor with the slings that can be seen from the ground. The moves up and over the sentry box are quite contrived. After that, it climbs directly up to the indistinct groove with the small right-facing flakes. When you have finished the crux, you will be left of and on the same level as the threaded belay station that is used for Ursuala, Groovy, and Space Invaders. The crux moves are fun and committing, albeit a bit brief.
Dana very sorry to place confusing comments on your description of Nose Drops. I am clear about where Nose Drops goes and your description is clear as well.
My reference to the pins and slings under the overhang in the middle of the wall is an issue unrelated to Nose Drops. To be very clear, or at least try to be; has anyone pulled over the roof there and continued up? If so, how did it go? The fact there is pins and slings makes me suspect somebody was working it at one point or another.
So you traverse right to the shared Ursula - Groovy - Space Invaders anchor? If so, I will (or you can) add that to the description - I think aiming towards anchor that would clear up a little of the confusion.
LosBill, the pitons with red slings are the top of another route (which I thought Dana was describing here, but that's not the case). I think it may be described in the newest book (I'll dig into that), though I don't think it's been described as having a 2nd pitch.
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