Rich Goldstone between the first and second cruxes...
Description
Dis-Mantel is a short but sweet climb up the center of the "Dis-Mantel" block which sits to the left of the Raunchy area. The "gear shift" knob broke off some time ago, and Dick Williams says the route is now 10b. For someone tall like myself, it doesn't make much difference, and the upper ceiling is still the crux.
To the left of Dis-Mantel is Dat-Mantel 5.10, and to the right, starting around the corner is Kernmantle 5.8. I always wanted to add another route and call it Mickey Mantle, but couldn't squeeze in another line.
Start near the middle of the face and pass a bulge on its left side (new crux?). Angle right and over a tricky ceiling (old crux). A little higher get a directional for your second and traverse straight right to a tree from which you can belay or lower.
Location
Middle of the Dis-Mantel block that sits between Bitchy Virgin and Gory Thumb. Unnamed climbs the left side this block.
I was conflicted about gear on the last roof. I got a good cam at the lip of the roof but I'm unsure about the rock quality. I warned my belayer to put on a helmet in case I fell and broke the rock.
Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Was I stupid to place the pro there?
BTW, I think Ivan is right that the route is height dependent. I'm 5'8" and I can *just* reach the good hold on the first roof. If I were any shorter I think it would be much harder.
Uhmmmm. 5.9+? Is this in the parallel universe where Gunks 5.9 + (=) 5.10?
I got up to that first mantle and got shut down, not wanting to chance my gf catching me.....
(And this was after three weeks climbing in Eldo and the Valley!)
Good gear though. Yellow alien below the first mantle if I remember right.
Definitely one to try again when I feel stronger.
By Brian From: Wakefield, RI Jun 23, 2009 rating: 5.10a
It is a 5.10 in both Williams and Swain which I found to be about right and the first bulge is definitely harder than the second "roof" which is rated at 5.8 in Swain. Not that the difference between 5.9 and 5.10 is significant but I think that people who are substantially taller or shorter than average who rate climbs skew the ratings, particularly at the Gunks where many climbs are reach dependent. 5.8 for 6'2" or taller 5.9 for 6'0" to 6'2" 5.10 for under 6'0"
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