PR 5.11+ R
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FA: Skip King FFA John Stannard Type: Trad Consensus: 5.11+ [details] Length: 150 feet Views: 79 page views
Submitted By: Bob D'Antonio on Dec 15, 2007
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Sandy Stewart...leading with Crack-n-up's for prot...
Description The crux is the thin seam on the first pitch. This route climbs to the woods in three short pitches. The first pitch is a serious piece of climbing. I think this was one of my first 5.11 in the Gunks back in the mid 70's. Pitch 1: Layback up the thin seam with difficult gear, reach a good bucket about 25 feet up and belay on a obvious ledge.
Location Just right of Shockley's Ceiling.
Protection Small to medium gear with many small rp's. I used crack-n-up's when I did the route. A pad could be helpful on the starting moves.
Comments on PR
By john strand Aug 19, 2008 A hard route- good thing it's short. I wonder if the first pitch has been highballed ?
By Bob D'Antonio From: Superior, CO Aug 19, 2008 Funny...you should ask that. I did back in the early 80's. Rich Gottiieb pointed it out to me on my visit to the Gunks last year. We were talking about PR and he said that he was so impressed when I came by one day when he was working it and I just solo it. I was impressed too as I forgot all about it until he mention it to me.