This pumpy route climbs the face left of Ants' Line. Start to the left of the tree, make some 10d moves, and join Ants' Line at its crux. Going up directly to the anchor ups the ante to 11b.
Protection
Often top-roped -- one can access the two-bolt anchor via Ants' Line or Sleepwalk. Otherwise, standard rack with some small pieces.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Aug 23, 2008 rating: 5.10d R
Despite the R rating, if you have a cool head, and don't mind well spaced, yet solid, gear and a 15-20 foot runout at the end, this route should be in the bag for ya.
A great line up a beautiful piece of rock. Start on the left side of the Ent tree grown into the foot of the wall. The route consists of a devious and sequential crux about 35 feet up followed by a nice rest out right, then hard moves to gain the large horizontal. The pump crux and runout appear above the horizontal where the difficulty options present themselves to you.
NB that no matter how pumped out of your mind you may find yourself on this route: if you're on TR, you do not have the right-of-way over a leader on Ants' Line.
This may sound 'duh', but ... happened to me, and it was like the guy didn't even see me!