Formerly 5.7, but the 5.8 grade seems more appropriate. That slanting crack is a lot harder than it looks from the ground.
This is an excellent alternate P1 for Madame G's if you are up to leading 5.8.
P1 - Climb the obvious curving crack and face past a bulge, then up to a ledge with a tree. Either belay at the tree to TR P1 or continue onto P2 or move right on the ledge to continue up Madame G's.
P2 - Climb straight up the face to a pink and white left-facing corner. Climb the corner past old pins (there as of 2005) to another stance. Work past the bulge (crux), then move left around a corner. Continue up the corner to the GT ledge.
Location
At a curving crack 15 feet right of Southern Pillar and 20 feet left of the blocky start that marks P1 of Madame G's.
This climb looks really easy from the ground. As such, I jumped on it. It's reasonably straight forward, then you hit the crux. The crux is more difficult than it looks, but, very doable. Nice alternative to the first pitch of Madame G's.
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