Fun climbing, Easy O works as a good novice lead or a warm-up for harder stuff.
P1 - Starting from the top of a pile of boulders, head up and left past a right-facing flake to a chimney. Climb the chimney; near its top, move left onto the face and up to a ledge (be careful of the plentiful loose rock). 5.1, 80'.
P2 - Move right on the ledge, then diagonal up and right to a left-facing corner and up to an overhang. Pass this overhang on the right and continue up to another overhang, then escape right to a small ledge (optional belay). Continue up the face to the top. 5.2, 80'.
Location
Starts on top of the boulder pile right of Baby. Rap from Son of Easy O bolted anchors (make sure this route is clear before dropping ropes!), or walk off via Uberfall Descent.
Protection
Standard rack, no specialty gear needed. Shares anchors with Son of Easy O.
Fun easy route. Spring '77 took a girl up this and she literally froze at the second belay. (Small ledge, very exposed.) For about 30 seconds she just stared into space. Soloed a few times--once stoned, wearing work boots. I miss college....
Pitch 1 - Awkward unprotected start with potential roll down 20 foot gully as penalty for falling. Climb into chimney then move left onto face and up to ledge, step right to bolts. Pitch 2 - Do not climb directly above bolts (that is second pitch of Baby), but rather step right beyond the bolts to next corner section of rock. Move up rock as per diagram. Easy, but fun climbing!
The second belay at the top of the cliff is a nightmare. There are hundreds of golf to tennis ball sized and shaped rocks that want to kill whoever is belaying on Son of Easy Overhang below. What would be an otherwise fantastic pitch for a new leader is, in my opinion, a terrible situation to put them in.
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